posted
just wondering why people run grounds all the way from the rear to the front by the battery rather than grounding directly to the frame near the rear.
posted
The theory is that you get a beter connection with a ground direct to the battery which ends up with less voltage drop.
Normally you attach the ground to the chasis which then allows the current to flow into the chasis and then back to the battery via a cable at the front that runs from the chasis to the battery.
If you have a battery in the back of the vehicle (such as my car ) its better to run the cable direct. as its a shorter distance with fewer connections.
If you upgrade your Big 3 up at the front theres not much point in running another cable all the way up to the front. It just costs more.
PS. Always use 1/0 power and ground cable. Posts: 340 | From: Trenton, Ontario | Registered: Dec 2003
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posted
Well Skinny guy.. McFrosty said it well enough and i'd easily agree that using a chassis ground instead of cabling all the way back to the front is the better and cheaper solution.
There are perceived benefits and real benefits - if you upgrade the battery ground then you're all good to go in regards to grounding
posted
not everyone has the means to run so much cable through the car or can afford to do it..
and here are my reasons not to go back to the terminal:
1. If you run back to the battery terminal, you are susceptible to picking up radio frequencies from the alternator and can be a problem for headunits.
2. Uneven resistance, this is a sure way to create ground loops
3. Capacitance of the battery: by grounding on the chassis you are using the batteries capacitance to reduce alternator ripple
There is also a certain amount of capacitance in the chassis. (you can get a shock off your car as it isolated) This is also a help in reducing DC ripple produced by the alternator
The idea of using the chassis (apart from saving a few bucks), is to use the battery's capacitance, to lower the ripples. By grounding a reasonable distance from the battery we take advantage of this useful feature. The other advantage is less impedance, because the chassis is a rather large surface area, thus diminishing DC ripples acting like frequencies.
Geez - i put up, so feel free to shut up.. and now i know why i don't bother posting here and also know why you got kicked off CAA for being such an ASS
posted
maybe these guys running earths from the front to the back got a whole lot of black cable for cheap somewere ,or found a full roll next to the road somewere !and now they feel the need to use it and conect it somewere WICH WILL ONLY CAUSE NOISE INTERFERENCE ON THE SYSTEM IN MOST CASES Posts: 80 | From: SOUTH AFRICA | Registered: Sep 2005
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posted
I ran 3 runs of 0 gauge for positive and grounded the amp in the back (1 collosus). After doing that for awhile, I gave in and ran the same amount of grounds up front to the battery.
.4 dB gain. Less voltage drop (bad english?) also. The battery already had 2 0 gauge grounds, and the amp had 3 grounds to the car previously. I left all them in tact and just ran the other 0 gauge to the main battery.
I can't explain it, and I don't care. It got my score up, and that's all that matters. I'm not gonna try and look stupid arguing theories that I have no clue about.
same here it helped my score so i will not try to sound smart and tell you why it helped all i know is running grounds right to the batt. has helped me and many mnay others thats compete.
People do what it takes to get loud, if taking an extra step and running 16 runs of wire gain you some spl/voltage/amperage-It's worth it!
Measure the voltage at your battery while burping and then do it at the amp while burping-see that the difference is.
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posted
Cheers Joker for the link, i'm more of the SQ perspective, and its interesting to see the different techniques that people use to make their gains
At the mo in my friends car we're using 2x Eaudio 3000d's and 2x 9512's and we're pulling 150s in testing.. i'll look into advantages and disadvantages of running back to terminal if time and budget allows
posted
it will be worth doing!! I would tell about the volts and db's I have seen gained but some people think it's all lies. lol
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posted
well, we're only in the first phase of testing.. there are gains to be made else where first before go out and buy more cable - just as of note, we're playing street B and the car is daily driven a lot so there are minmal mods that can be made to what has already been done.
Cheers for being nice about all this - i may stick around now
posted
Well the more power you are running the more wire you need to run. Doing 4 runs of each will do enough to be very good!! the "big 3" is a good and fairly cheap mod worth doing.
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posted
we have 2x 50mm^2 welding cable running from front to back for power and all grounds have been fully upgraded with 50mm^2 welding cable as well.. we're basically just slotting in some bigger amps and better subs in for fun we've already hit 145's with fusion powerplant subs and half the power of the strapped 3000d's so were just playing around for now.. we expect in the next 3 days to find a couple more db here and there
posted
For cable you want high strand count, electrons flow on the outside of each strand so the higher the count the more electrons, the secont reason why cable like stinger is so expensive. for those wondering what the first is ..its the name. Stinger
-------------------- WWW.DCSOUNDLAB.COM Team Hifonics Voted 2004 DB Drag Rookie of the year 2004 World Finals 3rd place finish SS1-2NW 2005 World Finals 4th place finish SS1-2NW 2006 World Finals 3rd place finish SS3-4 2006 Super Street DeathMatch Participant 2007 Super Street 3-4 163.1 with 2 amps 2007 West Coast SS3-4 Champion Posts: 2990 | From: West Coast | Registered: Nov 2003
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i think im going to run directly back up to the front. probably 4 runs of 2/0 awg. then im going to have 4 wires grounded to the frame at the rear. at the front with the battery im planning on having 4 2/0 awg wires coming from the from to the negative terminal.
posted
I'm curious about something, for those of you running multiple *power* wire do you have all thoase wires fused??? What about the multiple runs to the amp??
I would assume with all the splices in the wire that would be a negitive thing (splices from having to fuse EACH power wire)
I'm curious cause I'm going to have a multiple amp set up in 06' and I've been following this thread closley..
Posts: 279 | From: western washington | Registered: Mar 2005
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quote:Originally posted by bass4me: I'm curious about something, for those of you running multiple *power* wire do you have all thoase wires fused??? What about the multiple runs to the amp??
I would assume with all the splices in the wire that would be a negitive thing (splices from having to fuse EACH power wire)
I'm curious cause I'm going to have a multiple amp set up in 06' and I've been following this thread closley..
quote:Originally posted by bass4me: I'm curious about something, for those of you running multiple *power* wire do you have all thoase wires fused??? What about the multiple runs to the amp??
I would assume with all the splices in the wire that would be a negitive thing (splices from having to fuse EACH power wire)
I'm curious cause I'm going to have a multiple amp set up in 06' and I've been following this thread closley..
I use a 300A fuse per power wire.
I am not brave enough to do straight runs in my daily driver.
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