posted
i have a power distribution block allowing 1/0 in and (4) 4gauge out. the only thing is, that i want my sub amp to recieve 1/0 power. is it a good idea to trim the end of the 1/0 which will go into the 4gauge output from the power distribution? is this ok to do, or is it a bad idea?
-------------------- Alpine CVA-1004R Diamond Hex S500A Component Set Diamond D5 600.2 amp Two Kicker S12L7 2004 with Grill Kicker SX1250.1 Posts: 59 | From: London | Registered: Oct 2004
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posted
another big trick, strip off about 1'' of 1/0 gauge, fill it with solder take an angle grinder and grind it into a point and then you have a pimp reducer without going through a connector
-------------------- Posts: 6938 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
it won't provide much benefit after being bottlenecked at the 4 gauge in the distro block. just less resistance for the couple of feet left until the amp. and that little benefit may be negated with a bad connection or resistance in the adapter
Posts: 29 | From: Edmond, OK | Registered: Mar 2005
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posted
How about making ur own? Thats how I do it copper is rel inexpensive from a local metal shop, use that with sum ring terminals and bolts and u got a nice homemade distro
-------------------- Lemme get this straight... Your Honda Civic has 1.6 L whereas my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2?
posted
yeah the last foot doesn't matter as much as the first 20feet...remember resistance goes up with the length a lot, like reverse the situation, 1/0 to the block and 8gauge to your amp would work better than 4ga to the distro then 1/0 to the amp.
And no, there is nothing wrong with trimming off some strands to make it fit IMO. I do it in all my friends cars, I usually run 2ga incase they want to upgrade in the future, and just for the hell of it. Just make sure to NOT LEAVE ANY COPPER SHOWING where it could touch other things and short. So this is where you would use electrical tape / duct tape. Angle grinder works great. The solder thing is a nice idea if you have a soldering gun that can heat up 1/0 wire. You can also use wire cutters and cut small pieces at a time off. Hack saws also work. I would probably avoid using any kind of hand held power saw. If you use the angle grinder make sure not to bend the crap out of the remaining wires, I would suggest just doing it by hand with wire cutters. Or you can buy those fancy connectors that do the exact same thing and aren't free.
quote:Originally posted by TeamSubGoPoof: another big trick, strip off about 1'' of 1/0 gauge, fill it with solder take an angle grinder and grind it into a point and then you have a pimp reducer without going through a connector
quote:Originally posted by TeamSubGoPoof: another big trick, strip off about 1'' of 1/0 gauge, fill it with solder take an angle grinder and grind it into a point and then you have a pimp reducer without going through a connector
now thats slick
thank you, i thought it was a great trick myself. glad to see others trying it.
posted
you made it? Nice! I want one, but wtf where did you get 4/0 wire?! Welding place I assume, biggest car wire I have seen is 1/0, they probably make 2/0 somewhere...
posted
The wire I am running is actually MCM250. It is wire I use at work for high voltage/high current. It comes in 250 foot rolls for around $1100 a roll.
-------------------- Just some thoughts from a nobody. Posts: 3686 | From: Lakewood,Ohio | Registered: Aug 2003
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posted
could i just have 1/0 wire from my batt to my block and 4gauge from the block to the amp and 4gauge from the amp to the sub?
-------------------- 143.9dB on New Term-Lab 123.8dB Drive by New TL
Eclipse 5443 CD Player RE SX15 Crossfire VR1000D Upgraded 220amp Alternator 2 Cans of Great Stuff in the trunk lid. eDead SE in the whole trunk 4ft^3 ported box tuned to 31hz Optima Yellow Top (Coming Soon) Posts: 212 | From: Chicago, IL | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
You don't need 4gauge to the speakers. It's AC, so you can use 10ga with absoloutely no problems. With my friends bx1800d in my car, I have a stock alt (90a), marine deep cycle/starting for my battery, and 4ga throught, I had almost no light dimming and at full tilt into a XXX I still mantained 12.9v on test tones. 12ga speaker wire, 10ft long. So my point is...if you ran 4 gauge for everything, then 10 for the sub, it would still be a bit overkill.
posted
What coils were in the XXX and how were they wired? The reactive load might have taken the amp high enough that it didn't have a high current draw.
I have a BX2005 on a Hifonics Goliath 2412 Q2. 1/0 wire front battery to distro, 1/0 distro to amp. 2 Westco batteries in trunk connected to front with 2 runs of 4/0 power and 2 runs of 4/0 ground. All wiring under hood 1/0 and a 180 amp Ohio Generator alt
I still get some dimming in my car.
-------------------- Just some thoughts from a nobody. Posts: 3686 | From: Lakewood,Ohio | Registered: Aug 2003
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quote:Originally posted by TeamSubGoPoof: another big trick, strip off about 1'' of 1/0 gauge, fill it with solder take an angle grinder and grind it into a point and then you have a pimp reducer without going through a connector
now thats slick
thank you, i thought it was a great trick myself. glad to see others trying it.
quote:Originally posted by TeamSubGoPoof: another big trick, strip off about 1'' of 1/0 gauge, fill it with solder take an angle grinder and grind it into a point and then you have a pimp reducer without going through a connector
now thats slick
thank you, i thought it was a great trick myself. glad to see others trying it.
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