posted
yea i sprayed em with WD40 bout 3 days ago.
First set i used were 1\2" socket Craftsman. 2 of those broke.
I then had to buy a set of Husky 3\8" socket and 1 of those broke.
I did manage to get another one out last night.
There is still one that is completely stripped! I did not do it, it was like that when i started. IS there any "good" way to get that one out and be able to put the bolt back in later?
posted
as for the broken one, yes drill and tap as chris stated. another option is to weld a nut on the bolt, but that may not be possible inside the car.
if you can get a torch or some other heat source on the bolt, that will usually help get them out. but that may also not be possible inside the car.
Posts: 93 | From: Muskegon MI | Registered: May 2000
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posted
thats because you are using a t45 ill bet its a fors and if it is its a t47 made buy lisle verry hard to find but they dont strip bolts and you wont break knuckles
most will say im crazy but ..........http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=torx+47
Posts: 61 | From: Buffalo NY | Registered: Jan 2004
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posted
thats why it's a T-50 not a T45. some bolts have permenet (red) locktite and need to be heated with a torch to free the locktite...SPLaudio
Posts: 6167 | From: north rose,ny | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
well, we were about to grind the bolt head off but instead just grinded the back seat off so we could keep the seat belt in there and just reclip the backseat if necessary.
Next thing now, getting the 2x4s in place and start leveling my floor for the box.
posted
well this story topic is over but i did forget to mention that when i tried to get the last bolt out, hehe, the T50 bit, instead of breaking, the steel bit Actually twisted! That's one tight fit for me to twist steel and do nothing to the bolt. Well, it's over now, just thought i'd share that with ya.
posted
Damn you should took a torch and heated it up..i had to take seat belts out andi did the same thing untill i heated it up ,they broke right loose
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