posted
i wanted to use a pair of midbass in the doors of my car in I.B. with some horns. and i was thinking of using kicker ssmb series because of the small mounting depth. i took a look at the dayton ref series and they look like a really good value. the 7's are 3inches deep which i should be able to fit with a .25inch baffle or so. out of these two drivers which ones would you guys use? i have all active crossovers and tons of power for the midbass.
posted
I have heard the Dayton classics and was pleasently surprised by their potent midbass in deadened doors. The references are supposed to have that same great midbass with a huge boost of midrange clarity. At the moment I'm seriously considering a pair of the 7s and will need to decide on a tweeter...
posted
The Dayton reference 7's have about the same cone area as a 6.5. If you have the 3.5" depth for the 8 that would make more sense.
Posts: 2276 | From: East | Registered: Jan 2003
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quote:Originally posted by Tempe: I have heard the Dayton classics and was pleasently surprised by their potent midbass in deadened doors. The references are supposed to have that same great midbass with a huge boost of midrange clarity. At the moment I'm seriously considering a pair of the 7s and will need to decide on a tweeter...
Tempe
sounds good, i take it you haven't heard the kickers?
quote:Originally posted by EastCoast: The Dayton reference 7's have about the same cone area as a 6.5. If you have the 3.5" depth for the 8 that would make more sense.
well i allready have a pair of Veritas 8 inch midbass, and they are about 3.4 inches deep. i was hoping to find a driver to fit behind my door panel (1989 thunderbird) for stealth reasons. i would like to use what i have but i would have to make a door build out, didn't really want to do that. wanted it to look stock and need an easier install, and about the most i can squeeze in there is 3" for depth with a small .25 inch baffle. that is the main reason i was looking at the kicker 8's.
posted
You options are pretty limited then. I've not heard the kickers. Illusion audio makes some drivers that fit your space requirements, Morel, DLS, Blaupunkt, Kicker, pioneer, the phase linear aliante, i'm not sure if the falstaff comes in an 8, and I can't remember who makes it either...
I guess your options aren't so limited after all.
Posts: 2276 | From: East | Registered: Jan 2003
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looks cool! also looks like they are a few bucks too. that is one of the reason's i liked the idea of the daytons or the kickers, price. the daytons from partsexpress looked like a real value, and i can get the kicker drivers on ebay for $80 something U.S. a pair. so i guess i have a price constraint too. sorry... i find not too many people have heard the kicker ssmb midbass drivers, kind of makes me wonder why? thanks for all the help so far though, i do appreciate it.
posted
I wouldn't exactly call the Kickers midbass machines...especially trying to mate them to the horns.
I am fairly certain you can get those 8s down in the kicks. At one point, Dave Navrone had 10s in the kicks of his car (same as yours ) with his horns. It will take some probing and cutting, but they should go down there...and having the midbasses in the kicks will be 300% better than in the doors.
-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7993 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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quote:Originally posted by winslow: I wouldn't exactly call the Kickers midbass machines...especially trying to mate them to the horns.
I am fairly certain you can get those 8s down in the kicks. At one point, Dave Navrone had 10s in the kicks of his car (same as yours ) with his horns. It will take some probing and cutting, but they should go down there...and having the midbasses in the kicks will be 300% better than in the doors.
ya know i have thought of that, and it was what i wanted to do originaly. but i live on the west coast of British Columbia and it rains alot here. and frankly i was worried that my midbass would get damaged from the water from shoes. there is a spot kinda in the firewall floor area that has about .5 cubic foot of air space in a sealed body cavity. i have seen a few done this way and spoke to a few guys with horns and their midbass in this spot and it rocks! only i have the above worry, and my car is a daily driver. if i had another vehicle for winter i wouldn't even bother you guys with this, but i cannot afford another car. any ideas are appreciated, thanks.
posted
It doesn't fit your space requirements, but I've consistently found paper cone subs to be the best midbass.
Posts: 2276 | From: East | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
If you have the Veritas midbasses, I would use them in the kicks and be done with it.
-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7993 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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quote:Originally posted by winslow: If you have the Veritas midbasses, I would use them in the kicks and be done with it.
yea i guess you're right, i was trying to save time and money for an easy install i can do myself. i will poke around in my car and see what else i can come up with.
posted
Don't be too concerned with it. I live in michigan where it rains and snows like 3/4 of the year and I run paper in the kicks and have not had any problems at all. If you have the ability to get a nice midbass in the kick then go for it. If you do get concerned about water just make a cloth covered grill and spray it with scotchguard. I did it and it works great.
Posts: 986 | From: Detroit, MI | Registered: Nov 2004
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quote:Originally posted by Cinco5: Don't be too concerned with it. I live in michigan where it rains and snows like 3/4 of the year and I run paper in the kicks and have not had any problems at all. If you have the ability to get a nice midbass in the kick then go for it. If you do get concerned about water just make a cloth covered grill and spray it with scotchguard. I did it and it works great.
nice! that is a good idea. never would have thought of that one on my own.
posted
Use the 8's you already have. I think for some reason you can fit a 1/2" baffle behind the door panel. It's been a real long time since I worked on a T-Bird. Have you tried fitting a 1/2" baffle to get the 8's in your doors? If not, second choice would be aim for the kicks.
posted
First choice would be the kicks. Doors are about the worse place you can mount midbasses...but unfortuately is about the only place large enough to mount them.
quote:Originally posted by Mr. C: Use the 8's you already have. I think for some reason you can fit a 1/2" baffle behind the door panel. It's been a real long time since I worked on a T-Bird. Have you tried fitting a 1/2" baffle to get the 8's in your doors? If not, second choice would be aim for the kicks.
-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7993 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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quote:Originally posted by winslow: First choice would be the kicks. Doors are about the worse place you can mount midbasses...but unfortuately is about the only place large enough to mount them.
quote:Originally posted by Mr. C: Use the 8's you already have. I think for some reason you can fit a 1/2" baffle behind the door panel. It's been a real long time since I worked on a T-Bird. Have you tried fitting a 1/2" baffle to get the 8's in your doors? If not, second choice would be aim for the kicks.
ya i would think the path lengths are alot better for the midbass to be in the kicks. but it is alot harder of an install, but that being said i don't want to wast some half decent equipment on a not so good install either. in some older sound off cars like the grand national and a acura lengend i have read about, they have their midbass in the rear side panels. what gives with that location? seems to me to be worse than the doors? or am i missing something here?
quote:Originally posted by Mr. C: Use the 8's you already have. I think for some reason you can fit a 1/2" baffle behind the door panel. It's been a real long time since I worked on a T-Bird. Have you tried fitting a 1/2" baffle to get the 8's in your doors? If not, second choice would be aim for the kicks.
i have not tried a .5 inch baffle, the most i have used is .25 with some other deep 6.5 drivers in a previous install. i did have a small amount of clearance between the driver and door panel though. i will have to do some carefull measuring, but i am sure last time i took it apart that it would not work. thanks, i will give it a shot and see what happens.
posted
Getting them to work well in the doors won't be much if any easier than the kicks...and the kicks will kill the doors in terms of performance.
The rear mounted midbass thing back in the early 90s was about PLDs. Generally the speakers in the rear panels had lower PLDs than in the doors...and way too large to fit in the floors or kicks.
But that's back when cars had men sized midbasses.
-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7993 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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