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Just wondering if there are any opinions out there on whether or not to use sound-dampening spray (Cascade V-Block etc) before applying a few layers of dampening material (RAAMmat60 is what I have). I'm after that Lexus, Mercedes-Benz, Audi "solidness" and dead quiet, rattle-free ride - I have an 2001 Eclipse GT, so it may be a lost cause already!
Don't get caught in the WEB Gimmie some bass baby keep your XXX and others, MTX for me Is that me in the top 10 now?? Do you smell what the BASS is cooking... Posts: 6799 | From: cincinnati, oh, USA | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
I just called the shop that I WAS going to get my system installed at, and got into an argument about using BOTH spray and sheet-material. I think I won't go there.
I was planning to spray the entire car down inside, then put sound-dampening (RAAMmat) down on top of that...it occurs to me now that the sheets need to stick to metal...okay, fair enough, and the guy told me that, but like you said spyderman, combination is a good thing...there have to be places where sheets don't go.
Anyway, the guy says I'm looking at 2-3 days labor ($900) to get 125 sq.ft. of RAAMmat installed. Seems a bit much to me.
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2-3 days of labor to do a car? uhh no i helped a friend do his older Mcarlo interior and trunk and it took us less then a day and its not like we were workin that hard Posts: 3421 | From: Owosso MI, USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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Yeah that's what I thought. I have no experience actually applying the stuff, I just basically know how it's done. I guess I should just do it myself. That's probably the only way to be really happy with it, but I just don't want to take my own car apart because it's brand new and in the past I broke a lot of stuff doing that on other cars!
posted
mat will stick to the spray, just leave it a little rough so it has something to grip into
-------------------- spydermann
Don't get caught in the WEB Gimmie some bass baby keep your XXX and others, MTX for me Is that me in the top 10 now?? Do you smell what the BASS is cooking... Posts: 6799 | From: cincinnati, oh, USA | Registered: Jun 1999
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Okay thanks again. I will think about all this. It occurred to me that maybe they were right about the mat not sticking to the spray, but ****, it's adhesive and should stick to just about anything!
I hate arguing with installers about installations; they always assume that just because they own/run/work in a shop that they know all there is to know...my experiences to date anyway...maybe I should just do it myself!
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I can guarantee it will stick. I recently put two cans of spray deadening on the outskin of my door, and then a layer of mat deadening over the skin. It is holding very nicely.
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What I want to do is spray-deaden the outerskin of the door (the one that does not have the speaker on it!), and then use dampening material on everything else. Is this a good plan? My doors already have one layer of Dynamat Xtreme on them, but I want to double, maybe triple up on that with RAAMmat. If I didn't already have some Dynamat on there, I would have sprayed the entire thing down or painted it on, and then done the sheet stuff.
Is this a good idea? I want as quiet as I can get, so I want to cover all bases.
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everything should be fine... look at it this way, if mat will stick to another layer of mat, why wouldnt it stick to the spray? Just be sure to leave the mat out in the sun for about 30 minutes before applying so its nice and sticky and gooey so it sticks good. Just a little hint that I found when deadening my car... Posts: 18 | From: Kentucky | Registered: Jul 2002
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Well, I live in Las Vegas, so adequate heat shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for the posts. I'm going to tackle this istallation myself. I have gotten a really stupid amount of stupid input from local installers, and I've given up on giving my money to anybody else for this install!
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One last technical question on coverage of spray...I have 36 sq. ft. of Dynamat Extreme already installed on my doors and some of my trunk, and I have 125 sq. ft. of RAAMmat remaining to be installed...wondering how much spray (how many cans) I might need in order to do my outer door skins, my floor, firewall, headliner, and rear side panels.
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what about putting the mats in, then spraying the mats? but I guess that would defeat the purpose, because the spray would form-fit to the crevices better than the mat...
-------------------- 1994 Ford F-250 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Super Cab Long Bed 33" Mud Terrains Yeah, it's big, and yeah, it's got balls. Posts: 876 | From: Decatur, IN | Registered: Apr 2002
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posted
I actually thought of that too, but more because in my trunk there is not full coverage with the mat alone...there are places where the shop didn't do a complete job, and I want to spray before I lay down any more mat stuff, so I will likely just spray over that. Shouldn't be a problem.
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What you should do is lay the mat down on flat surfaces of your vehicle. This way you get a nice even layout of the mat. A quick way to get it to stick would be to use a heatgun. If you use a heatgun, you will see the mat conform to your car. This also makes it stickier a lot faster than leaving it in the sun. As for spaces you can't exactly reach with the mat, that is where the spray comes in. Spray areas that you can't lay the mat down easily. As for your doorskins, you should lay the mat down first because it is somewhat of a flat surface. This way, you can just spray over the mat, it makes life a lot easier that way.
Posts: 8 | From: Guam | Registered: Oct 2002
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