i'm currently running one amp at the moment, and i was wondering would it be ok if I ran another amp serperately straight from the battery? In other words without a distribution block? Would running it this way instead of using a distribution block put more strain on my car?
thanks
Posts: 6 | From: Sydney | Registered: Dec 2005
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i'm currently running one amp at the moment, and i was wondering would it be ok if I ran another amp serperately straight from the battery? In other words without a distribution block? Would running it this way instead of using a distribution block put more strain on my car?
thanks
Goodday mate,
Well, Its not as safe as using an inline fuse incase of a severe problem with the amp were to happen. People do this all the time for competition though. I would say do it knowing the possible risk of a fire should a failure happen. Whats a fuse holder run? $7-$40 bux (american) depending what your using for a fuse. Just some insight and a warning for ya, good luck with what ever you end up doing.
-------------------- Mike Zadler
2003 Usaci 151.2@48hz (AudioControl 170) 2003 AS3: 149.6@39hz (Linx Meter) 2004 S4: 145.2@41hz (TermLab) 2005 M1: 149.3@69hz Retired indefinately. Still into car audio to help others where I can. Posts: 3029 | From: I don't just want to knock over the pins, I WANT TO VIOLATE EM!!!! | Registered: Jun 2000
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posted
I run a couple amps. One for the sub, the other is a 4 channel. Both amps have thier own wireing kits. Each has a power cable to the battery under the car's hood. Each has a inline fuce up by the battery. Only issue I've had is headlights dim when a bass note hits. I'm not a fan of using caps, but I am consittering a 3 farad Stinger cap.
-------------------- 2000 Oldsmobile Alero GLS coupe. Clarion DXZ945MP, Clarion SIR-CL2 SIRIUS Satellite Tuner, Clarion DCZ625 CD Changer, Phoenix Gold Octane R5.0:4, Infinity Kappa 462.7cfp plates in the doors and Infinity Kappa 693.7i's in the rear deck , SoundStream PCX2000D, Single TREO Engineering SSX 12.11 in custom built slot port box. Posts: 456 | From: Omaha, Ne. as of 5/1/06 | Registered: May 2004
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quote:Originally posted by z3pr: I run a couple amps. One for the sub, the other is a 4 channel. Both amps have thier own wireing kits. Each has a power cable to the battery under the car's hood. Each has a inline fuce up by the battery. Only issue I've had is headlights dim when a bass note hits. I'm not a fan of using caps, but I am consittering a 3 farad Stinger cap.
A 3 fared cap is only a bandaid for the real problem. I would upgrade the Alternator, the wiring from alt to battery and ground from battery to chassis. Then see if you have that dimming problem.
Ohh by the way. You could run 2 gauge wire to a inline fuse, with the correct fuse rating. Then run the 2 gauge wire to a distroblock with dual 8 gauge wire to each amp. That would cut down on the wire jungle! Just a thought.
-------------------- Mike Zadler
2003 Usaci 151.2@48hz (AudioControl 170) 2003 AS3: 149.6@39hz (Linx Meter) 2004 S4: 145.2@41hz (TermLab) 2005 M1: 149.3@69hz Retired indefinately. Still into car audio to help others where I can. Posts: 3029 | From: I don't just want to knock over the pins, I WANT TO VIOLATE EM!!!! | Registered: Jun 2000
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quote:Originally posted by z3pr: I run a couple amps. One for the sub, the other is a 4 channel. Both amps have thier own wireing kits. Each has a power cable to the battery under the car's hood. Each has a inline fuce up by the battery. Only issue I've had is headlights dim when a bass note hits. I'm not a fan of using caps, but I am consittering a 3 farad Stinger cap.
A 3 fared cap is only a bandaid for the real problem. I would upgrade the Alternator, the wiring from alt to battery and ground from battery to chassis. Then see if you have that dimming problem.
Ohh by the way. You could run 2 gauge wire to a inline fuse, with the correct fuse rating. Then run the 2 gauge wire to a distroblock with dual 8 gauge wire to each amp. That would cut down on the wire jungle! Just a thought.
I'm not going too go through all that for a dailly driver system. I don't compete or anything like that. It's very rare that I turn my stereo up after dark anyways. For no more then what I'm doing, a cap should work fine.
-------------------- 2000 Oldsmobile Alero GLS coupe. Clarion DXZ945MP, Clarion SIR-CL2 SIRIUS Satellite Tuner, Clarion DCZ625 CD Changer, Phoenix Gold Octane R5.0:4, Infinity Kappa 462.7cfp plates in the doors and Infinity Kappa 693.7i's in the rear deck , SoundStream PCX2000D, Single TREO Engineering SSX 12.11 in custom built slot port box. Posts: 456 | From: Omaha, Ne. as of 5/1/06 | Registered: May 2004
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posted
IMO putting in a distro. block is much easier than running another wire to the batt. Either way you run the two amps. they are still going to have the same effect on the car. For a daily driver, I don't see anything wrong with using a cap. It's a realistic solution if you're not competing, that or a bigger batt.
-------------------- Without Inno there can be no Innovation!
inno73@hotmail.com Posts: 490 | From: Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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quote:Originally posted by z3pr: I run a couple amps. One for the sub, the other is a 4 channel. Both amps have thier own wireing kits. Each has a power cable to the battery under the car's hood. Each has a inline fuce up by the battery. Only issue I've had is headlights dim when a bass note hits. I'm not a fan of using caps, but I am consittering a 3 farad Stinger cap.
A 3 fared cap is only a bandaid for the real problem. I would upgrade the Alternator, the wiring from alt to battery and ground from battery to chassis. Then see if you have that dimming problem.
Ohh by the way. You could run 2 gauge wire to a inline fuse, with the correct fuse rating. Then run the 2 gauge wire to a distroblock with dual 8 gauge wire to each amp. That would cut down on the wire jungle! Just a thought.
I'm not going too go through all that for a dailly driver system. I don't compete or anything like that. It's very rare that I turn my stereo up after dark anyways. For no more then what I'm doing, a cap should work fine.
A cap draws more power from the alternator to work There is no temp fix... Get a HO alternator dude... www.excessiveamperage.com I yellow top would be 10x better than a cap... but still any battery will be a added load on your alternator...
If you have expensive equipment, u risk damaging everything
posted
I have used a 1 farad cap in a past install just to see what the effects are with a cap added into the system. At the time I had 2 Crossfire CFA-1000D's running 4 12" JL Audio W6's. I had dimming problems and a pretty good voltage loss with a quarter volume blast. I dropped in the cap, I saw no help in voltage and dimming was even worse (yes the cap was charged before turning up the music).
For this there is no cheap fix other then a high output alternator. You probably dont need an alt that pushes out 200Amps but something along the lines of 140-175amps. That will cure most problems unless your really suckin power.
-------------------- Mike Zadler
2003 Usaci 151.2@48hz (AudioControl 170) 2003 AS3: 149.6@39hz (Linx Meter) 2004 S4: 145.2@41hz (TermLab) 2005 M1: 149.3@69hz Retired indefinately. Still into car audio to help others where I can. Posts: 3029 | From: I don't just want to knock over the pins, I WANT TO VIOLATE EM!!!! | Registered: Jun 2000
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