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Hey all.... i had to get some of this crap today for the back door installation my bro and i did... i decided id much rather install decks and speakers... lol anyhow, my question is this... i have a 93 escort , and im about ready to put my stuff in it, im sure it will rattle and flex... mostly on the inside of it... it has kind of a gap between the plastic body panels inside the hatch area and the metal body... can i spray this sticky crap in there and deaden in pretty well?? i was thinking it would work perfectly... but im not too sure anyone use it? Ryan
------------------ Punkin out with a killer system. sXe all the way!
posted
The stuff rocks! I used it in an old system i had a while ago and the whole back end didnt make a sound and i gained a little in the spl department. Anytime you lessen flex and rattles you will better off. I have 3" of concrete in my experiment vehicle which is an astro van. I have expandind foam wherever i couldnt put concrete though. Just make sure you are EXTREMELY careful with it. Once it is on it WON'T come off. Like the hatch lock and infront of the light and so on. Good luck!
------------------ 24 12's and a buttload of power!
Posts: 403 | From: Spokane Wa USA | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
Hey I got a tip for you. If you are gonna use the expanding foam try this... Take duct tape and put it on the back of the plastic cover panel that is making the rattling against the metal. Then use expanding foam to fil in the gap between the metal and the cover panel. Now all you have to do is peel off the duct tape and the panel will come off . Or else if you just used the expanding foam with no protection you would not be able to take the cover panel off. Trust me when I say it is so much more helpful when you can remove the cover panel in case you have to fix something. Cause like JBSmooth said "this stuff does not come off" . And it will stick like hel to your hands and fingers, so wear gloves!!
------------------ 4 DD 9515-2's 2 VLX-400's And a big ported box!!
Posts: 261 | From: School - Drexel University | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
I just faomed my car this weekend. Here's a hint. Try the DAP stuff that expands to it's drying size as soon as it comes outta the can. the "Great stuff" has a tendency to expand and expand and expand, then it gets all over everything. I've seen a guy actually bend the sheetmetal in his trunk with that stuff. The DAP stuff worked really well, and was cheaper too
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Another lil problem how much of this stuff should i expect to have to use? this is going to be doing anythign that needs some bracing behind it..... heh..... i get the cans for like 3 bucks a piece, so i dont wanna have to get like 10 cans of it or something as a sidenote....... i think i maaaaaaay have used just a eensy weensy bit too much under my door we put in damn thing dont shut right now.... heheh
like i said before.... ill stick to putting in decks and amps and such
------------------ Punkin out with a killer system. sXe all the way!
posted
Yeah the stuff works great, but as noted, careful how much you use. I ended up having to drill the lock on the trunk of my old car just to get back in after it had set a few days. Bonus to that was the parts car I got the replacement from had power trunk release. I've also used household fibreglass insulation to stuff in to crevices. It works pretty good too, but make sure it's a place where no one will be in contact with it. It itches like crazy.
------------------ inno73@hotmail.com
Posts: 490 | From: Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Also, on the insulation, make damn sure that it's not going to get wet, or DONT USE IT! Insulation that gets wet NEVER DRIES! Presto!! INSTANT RUST! If you even suspect that where ever your going to put may some day even get the slightest bit wet, I'd stuff it into plastic bag, heat seal it, then use it...
------------------ If it dont fit, force it... if it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway... members.tripod.com/Audiophyle
Posts: 3120 | From: nowhere | Registered: May 1999
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posted
I don't usually recommend people use expanding foam behind plastic. They invariably use too much and it deforms the plastic. I lined the back of all the plastic panels in the Probe with trunkliner to control rattling against the metal. It was cheap, easy, clean and worked awesome. The only place I use foam is in metal cavities like trunk lid ribs and roof pillars.
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And that's the bottom line, cuz: LORD DUKK SAYS SO!
The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
posted
Good point on the insulation getting wet, I didn't think of it. Along those lines, when using any of the above mentioned methods, be careful you don't plug any of the various drain plugs that are around the bodies of some vehicles ie, bottoms of doors. Some vehicles just breed moisture naturally but we don't need to help it. Especially in a Canadian climate where we get the extremes in cold and heat. :-) ------------------ inno73@hotmail.com
[This message has been edited by Inno (edited 08-17-99).]
Posts: 490 | From: Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
i have a thought would it not be better to use a spray-on sound deadening an insulation as opposed to the expanding foam ... sounds safer than bending the crap out of ur panels alittle more expensive but also if parts an panels are designed to flex and move with the rest of the carwould it not impede the ride an handling? just a thought ...... go ahead shoot me down!!
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There is a tool dip stuff that is in a can. Its about 4bucks a can and comes in colors.The foam in my opinion is bad newz because the great stuff does expand and deform metal and plastic and everything in between(makes the gap bigger too)The dap stuff is good because it is a latex product and eaisily washable. I know this because i work at a home improvement store. So take it for what it is worth. The bigtow
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