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i was wondering where i can get the copper traces so my amps will work while spinning? thanks in advance
Posts: 102 | From: ND | Registered: Apr 2002
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For actual use i have a feeling what would not work well at all, for show is the only thing it mite be ok for. To make the traces ud just have to get copper stock from a metal supplier and make them.
-------------------- Lemme get this straight... Your Honda Civic has 1.6 L whereas my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2?
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If he mounted the amps so the wire was comin from a hidden area and he had some kind of custom connections that allowed the cable to spin, it might reduce flow of power you think tho? But if you want to just impress the ladies then there ya go
-------------------- RE Audio - CDT Audio - DEI - Alpine - Image Dynamics 00 Impala all slow and no go with some bling. http://members.cardomain.com/chrominimpala Posts: 590 | From: west michigan | Registered: Jun 2002
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For our radars here at the Coast Guard we use something called a rotary joint to get power to the spinning antenna. It kinda looks like a circular track inside of wich there is contact point. The contact point would be attached to your amp and the circular track would be attached to your battery. I don't know about carrying a hundred amps through it though. It would be cool, but you'd want maybe a small battery and some capacitance on the amp side just to make sure it gets it's power full time, the contact drags along the track and can make and break as it goes, and that would probably cause some sparks with such a low impedance on the amp side.
Cool idea bro, i'd love to see it! Rrrrolla
Posts: 112 | From: NB, Canada | Registered: Mar 2004
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i cant help to think about the "gyros" that people used to put on trick bikes back in the day so they could spin the bars and still run front break lines...or i guess they still do
-------------------- 1997 Tahoe 2 door box for 4 15's walled who needs equipment??? Posts: 720 | From: Sheffield, AL | Registered: Jan 2004
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i found a site that sells the rotary electrical connectors it will be a while till i get the project done since i have to replace the blown motor for the car but when done ill post a link, and if all you have is destructive comments, save yourself the time and dont bother posting them!!...
Posts: 102 | From: ND | Registered: Apr 2002
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Don't get all pissy. The first time you put 100 amps through a moving connection its gonna arc weld itself in place. THATS the problem.
Posts: 111 | From: Redding, CA | Registered: Sep 2004
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Intrepidguy has a great idea here. It's unique that's for sure. Whether or not he can get it to work is questionable. I see no need to make comments that do not help him, nor do they explain why what he is doing is going to be so difficult. DC Customs is exactly right about this and this is something you will need to work on. I have no answers for this either, but I do think you can at least limit the current through the rotary connection by having it only pass enough current to charge a battery on the amplifier side. this may be unpractical for your application though since you probably want the amp to spin and not an amp and a battery. But if this was an option, perhaps by placing a low value resistor on the source side in line with the charging voltage, you could limit the charging current to a low enough (yet still high enough to help charge) value so as not to cause arcing and charring. That's just an idea for you if you can't seem to make it work otherwise. again, cool idea.
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THe other problem is that the rotary connector is going to cause a LOT of noise on the audio channels. There is no way to make that contact smooth enough for a perfect surface, and anything but will wreak havoc on the frequencies running through it, plus it'll probably create a strong magnetic interference since you'll only have one axis to run ALL your wires through, and all that noise running on the power/audio channels will interfere a lot. Those are for analog circuits, on/off. You could prolly run the remote wire through it. I really am trying to think of a way to do it, but I've had no luck yet.
Posts: 111 | From: Redding, CA | Registered: Sep 2004
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actually ill be running my power ground and rem through one side and my rca and sp. wires out the other end so i can hopefully prevent any enduced noise, and here is one of the FAQ from the site ill be pruchasing my connectors from,
connectors be used for low voltage signal, data, thermocouple and strain gauge circuits? Yes. In addition to normal current and voltage uses, our connectors are ideally suited to low voltage/low amperage current and signal transmission. Unlike standard brush slip rings, ours use liquid metal as the conductor. This produces an extremely low noise signal transmission similar to the signal transmitted through a solid wire. This makes our connectors superior to brush slip rings for signal and data transmission. The signal quality does not degrade and no maintenance is required. (top)
and from some of the insane things that has been done on these forums and people are saying a spinng amp cannt be done common now, but ill be purchasing the connectors in a week or so and ill start on the rack just to prove that it can be done, ps im not in a bad mood im amazed by the way everyone thinks inside the box, and i suppose before i became certified or went to school or ever worked in an audio shop i couldnt build a low tuned winshield flexing setup with a single 18 and only 1200watts?
Posts: 102 | From: ND | Registered: Apr 2002
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Nobody thinks inside the box, there was just no viable way to do it. i still don't know how you are gonna make all those connectors mount, but I'm surprised by the things they claim on mercotac http://www.mercotac.com/html/1250.html and there is a 250 amp at 240 v connector so hey, might work. Or just use one of the http://www.mercotac.com/html/830.html ones, 8 connectors, 6 are 30 amp 240 volt..
Hey, calm down. If you read the other posts, it was a thinking process. And others that had not done the research were coming up with ideas or reasons it might not work..
OH HEY, I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING.. You used search and it worked.. lol.
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just make the amp spin one way tillall the wires are wrapped around another, then make it spint the other way
Posts: 52 | From: N/A | Registered: Aug 2004
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Somehow I don't think you'll get the same satisification like a spinning rim But anyway, this is definitely an interesting idea, I would think of a way to modify a ball joint (like the ones on BMX bikes for their front breaks) and let power go through, I mean stainless steel is a good conductor right? As for the powerflow issue, couldn't you just use power-conducting grease/fluid to make a good connection between the joint and protect the ball bearings from arcing? I'm sure someone in the heavy industry have ran into this problem and most likely have solved it.
-------------------- 98 Cadillac Deville
Premier TS-C504s Cadence SeAqua amps 12" Kicker L7
for audio input you could use some sort of fm modulation , so there would be no interruption of signal, and for ground- just make the turning device out of metal and self ground the amp. then all you would need is a turn on, speaker , and power lead.
Good luck !
-------------------- Greg Piper -2002 Mich. Points Champion (172) -2002 dB Drag World Finalist (SS9+) -1997 Ford F-150 -1985 Chevy Astro van Posts: 3059 | From: Houghton MI | Registered: Oct 2000
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quote:Originally posted by DS Customs: Don't get all pissy. The first time you put 100 amps through a moving connection its gonna arc weld itself in place. THATS the problem.
ever seen an alternator? Yes it is AC, but they have a moving rotor and brushes.
Spinning amps seems possible to me, but you may have to find a connector to make it happen.
Posts: 1714 | From: Dickson,TN,USA | Registered: Apr 2000
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If it were me, and I know its not.. I would consider something like a ball bearing or needle bearing set-up, but you can get conductive lubricant these days? A needle bearing would be able to "roll" on a contact, providing a consistent, high cross section connection. Your typical "scrape" connection, in a high current application, i don't think will provide enough contact area.
Again, something that I might think about doing if it were me would be bypassing the alternator rectifier, stringing high(er) voltage AC lines to my rotating setup, and doing an inductive connection. This approach would probably be prohibitive in design ingenuity, cost and complexity, but ultra-trick.
Brad- i think considering the low voltage that a brush type setup might be too high in resistance? what do you think?
ShadowStar
-------------------- You can't build a reputation for what you're GOING to do.. But you can build one for TALKING about it!
It's all about knowledge, love and respect. Posts: 2579 | From: Somewhere In the Northeast | Registered: May 1999
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Oh, and I guess I'm forgetting the input-output side of the amplifier as well!
You're gonna have to get RCA's into your amplifiers and speaker level outputs OUT of your amplifier. rca inputs i would have to say are a very bad bad bad idea for friction (slide) junctions, and even a well done version of this would probably be tooooo noisy. a good IR modulation technique could probably be employed here? use an infared transmitter to send the signal to a receptor on your platform.
speaker level outputs will be much the same as your power inputs, and very noise invariant.
you could also mount the amplifier guts somewhere else and just spin some faux amplifier chassis that LOOK like they're wired up ;-),
ShadowStar
-------------------- You can't build a reputation for what you're GOING to do.. But you can build one for TALKING about it!
It's all about knowledge, love and respect. Posts: 2579 | From: Somewhere In the Northeast | Registered: May 1999
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ok i know this is old but i was wondering how it worked out?
the easiest way to do this would be to get a spinning mechanism mounted on a piece of plastic or wood or another unconductive material mounted to the floor, on top of that mechanism have another piece of unconductive material and have all your connections put on copper or dist blocks on that and have your amps on stilts or platforms that come up to cover your connections.
I'm thinking simple VERY VERY slow speed fractional hp motor under false floor, with wood connected to the shaft for connections, (you can ziptie your connections to compensate for the spin i just tested this, as long as its not spinning at like 60 rpms you'll be fine) a sweet 20 rpm motor would work FANTASTIC and give a sleek look
then on connect the amp(s) on stilts on a platform coming up from this and you have a spinning amp rack, or you could go with a rocker motor with half spin like already suggested.....
any updates on how this turned out or did it get trashed?
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Posts: 8177 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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Funny thing is, I've actually seen this done. It's been 10 plus years, but someone had an eclipse or some other hatchback and a linear power amplifier. It had tracks for the power and signal that you could see (to keep contact). I didn't listen to it, so I don't know how it sounded. It also could have just been the heat sink.
It drew a crowd though---every one stood there and watched it (and discussed how it worked).
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