posted
I was thinking about trying to build a transmission line enclosure for an mt 15, provided i could find its fs. From reading about the physics of a tl enclosure it should eliminate phase problems with front and rear waves so i should get more spl theoretically, but ive never seen a transmission line enclosure in the spl world so i dont knw if itd rly do ne good. If ne1's tried it leave a response, Id love to see wut others think of the idea.
~Peace
-------------------- Lemme get this straight... Your Honda Civic has 1.6 L whereas my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2?
quote:Originally posted by xtremesplokc: I was thinking about trying to build a transmission line enclosure for an mt 15, provided i could find its fs. From reading about the physics of a tl enclosure it should eliminate phase problems with front and rear waves so i should get more spl theoretically, but ive never seen a transmission line enclosure in the spl world so i dont knw if itd rly do ne good. If ne1's tried it leave a response, Id love to see wut others think of the idea.
~Peace
according to what i've heard, a transmission line takes up quite a bit of space, so for a 15" MT, wow!! i hope you have like an E350 or something and you're planning to wall it off!! lol. a perfect example of a transmission line would be bose's acoustimass radio or whatever that small radio is that they say sounds like a full home theater from like, 2 three inch speakers or some craziness like that. good luck!!
-------------------- 150db+ using jl and eclipse Posts: 86 | From: miami | Registered: Jul 2004
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posted
I'm using 2-8's in a T-Line, firing through the rear deck of my '85 Accord. I calculated the T-Line to 1/4 wave, and "folded" the T-line, making sure to round off any sharp corners and angles. I used hand carted sheep's wool to insulate the first 3/4 of the T-line, tight near the speaker and thinner as I got to the end of the run. A single 15 would take up some space..,but you can use a "snail shell" design (such as B&W's Nautilus), it's tough to make, but I have seen designs of the prototype on the net, so it should give you a good idea of what you need. Have fun, and remember, when it comes to T-Line it's either perfect or it's perfect for the garbage can. As far as SPL is concerned, if it's done right, you'll have people $hitting bricks.
-------------------- E.C. Wuz here Posts: 1057 | From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada 'eh | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Transmission line enclosures such as the one you mention will definately take up a great deal of space and be difficult to install.. If you want something unconventional, why not try hand-building a bandpass design for your 15? Much less labour intensive than folded-TL's and in a car probably just as satisfying.. Plus much more opportunity for plexi, lights, etc.
If you had smaller subs, such as 8's like Eli.. It would be less of an obstacle.
Tell me what you think.
ShadowStar
-------------------- You can't build a reputation for what you're GOING to do.. But you can build one for TALKING about it!
It's all about knowledge, love and respect. Posts: 2579 | From: Somewhere In the Northeast | Registered: May 1999
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posted
I wonder how a big a** folder horn would work with an MT 15? Adire managed to create plans for a folder horn for their tempest that wasn't extremely huge so I'm guessing it will be possible for an MT15.
posted
i wanna see some more of these lesser used box designs in the SPL comp world, instead of just a few Überwoofers and tons of amps and batteries...
posted
Back in the day my bro had 1 18" RF Punch Pro series in a TL box powered by a Punch 150. All of this in a CRX. You talk about LOUD-N-LOW! You could actually hear that little car for blocks!!!
-------------------- RF Vintage Old School Fanatic, The Punch Car Audio for the dedicated sound enthusiast with a passion for performance!! Cerwin Vega! Turn It Up! Since 1954. 50(more)years of disturbing the peace! -----------------------------------
quote:Originally posted by RFVega115: Back in the day my bro had 1 18" RF Punch Pro series in a TL box powered by a Punch 150. All of this in a CRX. You talk about LOUD-N-LOW! You could actually hear that little car for blocks!!!
I don't see a properly designed TL box for a 18 fitting in a CRX
A TL box that I made for 1 6" sub took up more than half of my hatch in a 2002 cougar
quote:Originally posted by Team Urban ArtFX - Percy:
quote:Originally posted by RFVega115: Back in the day my bro had 1 18" RF Punch Pro series in a TL box powered by a Punch 150. All of this in a CRX. You talk about LOUD-N-LOW! You could actually hear that little car for blocks!!!
I don't see a properly designed TL box for a 18 fitting in a CRX
A TL box that I made for 1 6" sub took up more than half of my hatch in a 2002 cougar
It was a TL (BIG TALL box, partioned inside with a long slotted port). It is possible and can be properly designed for a 18" in a CRX.
-------------------- RF Vintage Old School Fanatic, The Punch Car Audio for the dedicated sound enthusiast with a passion for performance!! Cerwin Vega! Turn It Up! Since 1954. 50(more)years of disturbing the peace! -----------------------------------
posted
Just built one for one of the Vifa 7'' PL's, line length was like 7' 5'' I believe for 38hz 1/4 wave. I think I made the line a bit too large and I should have tried tapering it instead of just making it same size all the way through. Either way I'm getting alot of bass out of this single 6.5'' driver that isn't even designed to play that low. Its impressive but not as impressive as I was hoping. I am going to try a few different things with it and see if I can get it to work better. Its always fun trying new designs and trying to make them work.
posted
It took me a little while to find that nautilus box, but here it is in the design process. They have a wonderful wealth of information there. Look under Bowers&Wilkens to get to their site. I downloaded their pdf file on the construction and design notes- very interesting stuff. makes me wanna start bending up some wood!!!
posted
Tip on the TL's insulation. You'd want to put heavy insulation near the back of the speaker, and thin it down to no insulation towards the last 1/3 of the T-Line. Tapering the cabinet will make a big differance(that's what it's all about). Avoid sharp edges within the cabinet, including sharp corners, round 'em off , and fill in corners with sawdust and glue.
-------------------- E.C. Wuz here Posts: 1057 | From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada 'eh | Registered: May 1999
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