posted
I have a scion tc so if u got one, that would help.
Basically, I have a hatch. Dimensions-
17.5" max viewable height for the first 11.5" back. Height then drops to 14.5" then gradually drops to 13" from backseat to rear- 22" deep. The last 2-3" in back drops to 10.5" high. Width- If not going above 12" high, 42" wide. Not going above 13" high, 38.5" wide. Not going more than 11.5" deep, 17.5" high.
Goal- 3 2000d's, 2 hc2400's, 1 4 chan amp all in the hatch. The Catch-
Must be bolted down to be covered by insurance. Must also be able to pull spare tire out of hatch!!! Ouch!
Best design I know of- I want to run either 3 10s or 3 12s sealed the whole width of the trunk facing up right behind rear seat. Both batts rear of hatch sideways. I can fit 2 2000ds underneath of false floor but I need to install the other 2 amps AND be able to get to spare.
What design tricks does anyone know bout gaining access to spare when false floor is bolted right above spare?
Anybody have any "lots of bass in tiny space" tips?
posted
Might have to go a little smaller. Here's a few ideas:
- a stinger 1700 can fit in the oem battery location. (you have to remove the fuse box,air box and a little black cover to get it in there). The col thing is to the untrained eye it looks like it left the factory that way. It took us about 1.5 hrs to get it in there - remove the right side foam packing that gives you the space to do 2 10" sealed. (my customer wanted a great sound,but wanted a stealth install. I did a single 10" with amps hidden under a false floor. Bass was incredicle and the grin on his face was remarkable.
-------------------- Chuck Whitney Jr. '95 VW Jetta III 2008: World Finals:Street Stock A - 4th place Regional 2009: New Season..New Class..getting back to basics
posted
well just putting it out there. but i put 1 12" rockford p3 with about 600 watts in my girls caviler and its pretty loud. it's a tiny 1 cube boxe takes a very small amount of room. which is what she wanted. i was actually serprised because it's louder then i would have thought. i'd say if you go with a good brand sub and amp even in a small sealed box you can get some bass. i do belive the mtx 9500 series can do pretty small boxes for the power they can hold. thats a pretty small car and it would take much to get a back message. what 15" and amp did you use?
-------------------- two 15" l7s us amps 2000 Posts: 323 | From: detroit | Registered: Sep 2006
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posted
oh and getting to the spare i seen a box design in a car where they had the box like 3-4 inches of the floor and bolted it to the sturt towers. box still bolted and providing the subs are against the rear seat you may still maybe able to get to the spare. maybe mock up a few designs with good old cardboard and duct tape and just play around. sorry i am not more detailed but never worked on a scion.
-------------------- two 15" l7s us amps 2000 Posts: 323 | From: detroit | Registered: Sep 2006
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posted
Well, I use autocad to do my drawings so I have an advantage of knowing what can fit.
My last setup was audioque hd3 15 off of cadence zrs10.
I want to use 3 10 or 12" fi qs off of 3 opti2000ds. I hear that may be too much power for those subs but these amps after rise around 1 ohm on 12-13v do 1300-1600w of power so after the bp option, should be fine
posted
One question that may or may not help...why do you have to get to your spare?
I ditched my spare years ago and put an amp rack in it's place. I have a small bag in the car with a jack, lug wrench, pliers (to remove foreign objects from tires), a plug kit, a 12 volt pump, and a can of fix-a-flat. Only a blowout would pose a real problem and I pay something like $2 a month on my cell phone in case something like that happens.
posted
Well I have had a blowout before. Not in this car but I have. I know it's easier to have.a flat on low profile tires so I don't like waitin for a tow truck to come. They usually take more than an hour just to get there.
posted
i know of a design i can do that i can get 4 amps, 2 batts and 3 10s sealed in the back AND get to the spare.
The only problem is, i want to do 3 12s because, well, duh it's louder, hehe, and i need an extra 1 cu ft of space to do that but when calculating it, it just turns more and more into a no-no situation.
I was thinking about mounting he sub box onto a roller and locking it in place in the back of the car with 1/4" steel tie down. I know a thief can't even get to the lock because you can't open the hatch without the key, it's electronically controlled only.
But... insurance-wise, the subs on the roller may not be covered by the insurance company. I gotta call them and ask them.
If it is covered, then i can just pop the back seats all the way forward, roll the subs toward the cabin area, then there would be a hinged floor that i could lift to get the spare.
Well, let me make this phone call, hehe
Update - ok, called, it's a complicated insurance question so i gotta call tomorrow and talk with the manager about it.
posted
Final update, insurance WILL cover my idea. All I have to do is take pics of the entire install process so if someone were to be able to steal every piece in the hatch that they would at least know how it was installed so I would be covered.
5,000 dollar coverage required! That's the max coverage before I go into custom policies.
![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
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