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Could anyone give me a head's up on how to primer my van for this year? I had it last year but it's in 4 different colors and seeing as I can't afford to paint it the way I want till this fall I would like to know I quick walk through on primering over the paint that's already on my Astrovan. (I'm sure it isn't REAL difficult but I would like to know what I'm getting into when I do a project.)
Any spray paint primer out there that's obviously better then another? How many cans do you think it would take to cover a 1989 Astrovan?
I can't really afford to have someone spraygun it right now so I figured I would do a budget job for this season 'til I can bring it in for the real job.
Any good tape to tape off windows,etc.
Any help would be appreciated.Thanks!
-------------------- Team Cactus Sounds Team XS Power Posts: 2394 | From: WI | Registered: Jun 2004
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use blue painters tape and whatever paper you have laying around, like newspaper to tape off windows. As long as the van isn't layered in paint you can just scuff it up and shoot the primer on. High-build primer is only like 35 bucks a gallon, and a gallon should cover your van fairly easily. You can get a gun pretty cheap as well...
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quote:NDMstang65 (9:54:55 PM): scottie gagged me once...
Posts: 8934 | From: Camdenton, Missouri, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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Something to think about is rattle can primer will soak up moisture and will start rusting. Plus the primer will be ruined. I think you would be better with some good krylon pain or somthing along those lines.
Posts: 1025 | From: Ohio | Registered: Sep 2005
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you rattle can, you lose dont spend all that money on that front end and rattle it, you will forever hate yourself when you go to try and put a real paint job on it.
-------------------- Scott Christensen Posts: 11367 | From: Victoria, TX | Registered: Nov 2001
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Beg, borrow, or steal a spray gun and hit the van up with a decent primer. I've had good luck with PPG's Omni 182 filler/sealer primer. Drove my truck a few months with that on it and had no problems. It's fairly cheap too for a decent primer.
Just so you know, the most important part of a paint job is what you do before you lay the primer. You need to sand everything very well, and all body work should be done before the primer. Now, if you just want to cover things up temporarily you could always sand and shoot, then later sand off the areas that need work (door dings, chips, etc).
-------------------- 2001 Jeep 4.0L, 2" lift, Old Man Emu shocks 33x10.50 BFG AT's, Aussie Locker Some stereo junk More mods added with every paycheck Posts: 192 | From: Arizona | Registered: Feb 2002
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sand sand sand sand sand. layer any rock chips, and 220 for the highest under primer IMO
Posts: 385 | From: Hattiesburg Mississippi | Registered: Jan 2006
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dont forget to seal before you prime. (thats what i was told) then you can run around in primer for howeverlong you need before the real paint job
-------------------- Mike Zadler
2003 Usaci 151.2@48hz (AudioControl 170) 2003 AS3: 149.6@39hz (Linx Meter) 2004 S4: 145.2@41hz (TermLab) 2005 M1: 149.3@69hz Retired indefinately. Still into car audio to help others where I can. Posts: 3029 | From: I don't just want to knock over the pins, I WANT TO VIOLATE EM!!!! | Registered: Jun 2000
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quote:Originally posted by AudioStylz722: dont forget to seal before you prime. (thats what i was told) then you can run around in primer for howeverlong you need before the real paint job
Sealer goes on after primer, and right before color (it's a wet-on-wet process).
-------------------- 2001 Jeep 4.0L, 2" lift, Old Man Emu shocks 33x10.50 BFG AT's, Aussie Locker Some stereo junk More mods added with every paycheck Posts: 192 | From: Arizona | Registered: Feb 2002
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Okay everyone is on the right track basically,dont rattle can it,it a waste.I recomend using "feather fill" primer which is easy to use,high building and easy to sand. Step one:would be to rempove the clear coat.Take a green scuff/scour pad and some comet powder bleach dampen the vehicle one panel at a time scrub over it fairly well this wil remove contaminates and clear coat(do one piece at a time so the bleach doesnt dry,scrub then rinse repeat. step two:Sand,if you can get your hands on a da sander it will save your life!sand with 180 grit.Any low spots or dent can now be fixed with a body filler(bondo of evercoat)ones dents are filled sand with a body block and some 36 grit paper in a cris cross fashion until majority of the high/excess bondo is off thn hit it with 80,then 180. Step three:mask off or remove all parts not getting paint.In my opinion dont use the blue tape,its easy release AKA wont stick, just use plain old masking tape ,masking tape will remove easily if done in a resonable amount of time.If left on for weeks it gets ugly.once its all masked blow it off then use a tack cloth to remove all dust. step four:Mix up your primer in small batches usually a quart to a tube of hardener.Go for it make sure to keep a even speed and distance when spraying .Start from the top work your way down and watch your wet edge over lap wet edge 50/50 to ensure its even. Step five:if you want paint nows the time sand primer with 320 grit,blow it off and spray some paintIt can be had fairly cheap.I suggest nason single stage acrylic enamel,its a two part one step paint.sprayit ones good and its a paint and clear in one.let dry and un mask.nason paint is under 100 bucks a gallon pending on color,white just costed me 55 bucks and red was 78. hope it helps man,if your gonna do it do it right the first time.it will be okay just wait for a nice day and if you can do it in a shop or a booth its the only way to go a booth can be made with plastic sheeting and a car port or some pvs supports just make a sealed room so bugs/ dirt doesnt get in you finish. good luck.
Posts: 331 | From: The Boonies,Ca | Registered: Feb 2005
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quote:Originally posted by ---Navi---: you rattle can, you lose dont spend all that money on that front end and rattle it, you will forever hate yourself when you go to try and put a real paint job on it.
you can actually get high quality automotive grade in a rattle can that is high building...
but its strictly for spots...but i do use it alot on fiberglass
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-ex staff :shakes head and walks away:- Posts: 5317 | From: Radford, Va...Radford University! | Registered: Jun 2001
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there is several types of primer depending on what paint ur going with a custom paint later u need urathane primer and high build will help. the important part is if u plan on driving around primered make sure to seal or clear it. primers job it to make it good bonding (grabbing if ya will) and moisture stick to primer better. ur car will rust faster with just primer...
Posts: 6741 | From: north rose,ny | Registered: Aug 2002
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Thanks for the thoughts guys. I talked to a few people and just decided to leave it the ugly way it is! After all it's only gonna be this way for another summer!
Thanks again. Geoff
-------------------- Team Cactus Sounds Team XS Power Posts: 2394 | From: WI | Registered: Jun 2004
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that high fill primer in the spray cans DOESNT fill anything.LOL a paint gun is your best option! spray primer SUCKS and very thin.... you can sand thru it REALY QUICK! BUT with decent primer in a spray gun... sprays thick enough to work with and something that wont wear thru or fade thru.LOL
just get some decent primer. i got some cheap stuff off ebay for my old s10 and the primer didnt dry and was REALY soft which screwed up my paint! paint on that truck still is messed up... but o well rest of the truck is covered in hail damage and its around 200K miles so resale will suck either way.LOL
but anyways just buy a paint fun and spray it good!!!!! youll be so much happier with it and quality will be so much beter as well! think about it it will cost you like what 5bucks a can for spray paint... compared to like 35bucks for primer and you can buy a cheap spray gun. ya dont need anything expensive for primer! youll want to sand the primer smooth before painting anyways Posts: 4858 | From: indiana | Registered: Apr 2003
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