posted
Well I figured out the fiberglass for a sub enclosure.. heres the steps:
1. Build box 2. Put fleece over it and staple it to the bottom board 3. Mix resin and hardener 4. Use brush and brush resin over the fleece 5. Let dry 6. Put on fiberglass MAT 7. Mix body filler & hardener 8. Put body filler over it and let it harden 9. Sand it
Well if there is anything else that I should know please tell me. I plan on doing my first one this week or next. Just for practice. Later on I want to make my own door panels and center console. Probably the center Console before the doors. Can you even do the doors? Like what I was thinking is you take the door panel you have off and put make a t-shirt over it and do it like a sub enclosure. If there is another way please tell me. I think it would be sweet to have something engraved into each door. Have you own design. If anyone has done this before please tell me how yours turned out and i would love to see pictures!
For the center console, I want to do this so I can add the switches for my amps. I heard it wasnt good to put air cylinders on a blazer.. is this true? Year 96, 97, or 98. If it would be ok, in about a year and a half i should have the color white with 4 KMC SS 20x9. Maybe even air cylinders. Depends on the money i come up with.
Well I'd love to see yalls fiberglass stuff yall built. Thanks in advance!
Jacob
Posts: 53 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
you messed up the order, heres the correct order:
1. Build box 2. Drink beer. 3. Put fleece over it and staple it to the bottom board 4. Drink beer. 5. Mix resin and hardener 6. Drink beer. 7. Use brush and brush resin over the fleece 8. Let dry while drinking beer. 9. Put on fiberglass MAT 10. Mix body filler & hardener while drinking beer (do not mix with the bodyfiller). 11. Put body filler over it and let it harden while drinking beer. 12. Sand it. 13. Drink more bber and pass out!
Canada, eh?
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My install will never be complete..... *sigh* Posts: 40 | From: BC, Canada | Registered: Jul 2001
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you got a blazer, forget the air cylinders and just fast bag that baby.!!!!! much cheaper to run bags, you dont have to get brackets made, if you want to order them. oh and dont forget that bridge notch, 4 link, and spindles to lay it down the way it should be.
posted
lol... well I dont plan on doing anything to the exterior for a little while. Right now I just want to get the system done. I really have decided on building a wall and trying 2.5 cu.ft. of space + port for each 12" L5. If I come up with any more room I wanted to make the back look like a wall with the amps screwed into it. I saw a picture of a van in CA&E it looks sweet. But made out of fiberglass it looks like. Not sure how to do fiberglass still! Well I have no experience in it.
I keep meaning on trying to go buy the stuff. About how much is all the stuff I need gonna cost me anyways?
Posts: 53 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
Beer is always need. It helps calm yourself when u realise after a few hours that you din't mix the right amount of resin/cat and it will not set ( it is not due to the fact that you were drinking while mixing the resin;))
quote:Originally posted by JacobDixon15: 2. Put fleece over it and staple it to the bottom board
Fleece works, but I prefer to use grill cloth. It stretches nicely, doesn't use up as much resin, and makes your walls thinner.
quote:Originally posted by JacobDixon15: 4. Use brush and
As a little tip I find useful, try cutting the bristles down on your brush to about an inch long. This makes them stiffer and easier to work with. It also helps in poking out air bubbles, and pushes the resin through the material faster.
quote:Originally posted by JacobDixon15: 6. Put on fiberglass MAT
Try spreading some resin on the surface before you put down your mat. This will allow the mat to stay in place rather than stick to your brush. It also allows the resin to soak through faster. This saves you a lot of work time. Depending on the size mat used, you should probably use about 6 oz. thick fore the walls. In other words, if you are using 2 oz. mat, build it up three layers thick. This will give you plenty of strength without flex.
You can also do a couple layers at once before you let your resin harden. This can save time. Just don't go more than 3 layers at a time, otherwise you might have some heat problems (fires are no fun).
quote:Originally posted by JacobDixon15: 7. Mix body filler & hardener 8. Put body filler over it and let it harden 9. Sand it
Depending on the finish you are going for, this might happen several times. I find it best to use 36 grit paper to do your forming, and then build up with more filler to fill in the places that always seem to come up. If you have large flat areas, and you are painting it a dark color, use large strokes with a sanding block. This will keep your surface flat and uniform. Just because you can't see the imprefections, doesn't mean they aren't there. They will show up after you paint, which is a pain. The best way to tell is to close your eyes, and run your hand over the surface. You will be able to feel where more body filler is needed, or more sanding is required. I like to finish off with 120 grit sand paper.
After that you want to spray it with some high build primer. This will fill in small pinholes, and get rid of any sand marks. Spray it on thick. Once it is almost dry, spray on a light coat of black spray paint. It should just mist the surface. Once everything is completely dry, use 320 grit sand paper to sand it down flat. The black paint will show you where your high and low spots are, as well as valleys that always come up.
quote:Originally posted by JacobDixon15: Can you even do the doors? Like what I was thinking is you take the door panel you have off and put make a t-shirt over it and do it like a sub enclosure. If there is another way please tell me. I think it would be sweet to have something engraved into each door. Have you own design. If anyone has done this before please tell me how yours turned out and i would love to see pictures!
Now if you noticed, they sanded down their door pannels (I used the 36 grit paper) and drilled holes around all the edges. This will allow the fiberglass something to lock down to. I just sanded my door pannels before I fiberglassed, and it does come up slightly in spots. But it isn't a problem.
I just spread resin on my pannels and put down a layer of 1.5 oz. mat. It worked fine for what I was doing. I just fiberglassed the tops of my doors, and am going to paint them. Right now it is primered and sanded smooth. It is really much more comfortable than the stock vinyl. Everyone who rides in the car says so. Anyway, follow the steps I outlined above, and you will have new pannels in no time.
quote:Originally posted by JacobDixon15: Well I'd love to see yalls fiberglass stuff yall built. Thanks in advance!
I have pictures, but no digital camera and no scanner. Otherwise I would post them.
-------------------- There is a shortage of perfect breasts in this world. It would be a pity to damage yours.
Sony ES CDXC-910 -- Sony XDP-4000X -- Adire Audio Koda components -- Adire Audio Brahma 10"-- Arc 1500dr -- Soundstream Reference 300 Posts: 191 | From: Lynnwood Washington | Registered: Jun 2002
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why run air cylinders. the fronts are so easy to bag with a regular convoluted bag, and almost every shop makes upper and lower cups that would fit.
-------------------- Zapco Studio 204 & 500 (2) JL Audio 15W6's Linear Power PA2R (other stuff) Full Air Suspension Posts: 63 | From: Fresno, CA | Registered: Oct 2000
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