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Started my 3.25 cu box for my L7 today and decided that I didn't want to risk splitting this wood at all so I am attempting it with just gluing and clamping, this should still make the box structurally sound, correct? Thanks, Josh
Posts: 65 | From: Manhattan, KS | Registered: Sep 2002
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I think that MIGHT work except, how are you going to keep all the pieces straight? I mean, wont they slide around a little? I would at least use some staples to be safe....actually I would not even take my chances on just glue especially with a sub like the L7 where box breackage could be a proble. Just predrill the holes and it wont split (unless you are careless)
-------------------- check out my explorer <a href="http://www.sounddomain.com/id/96explorer" Posts: 257 | From: Illinois | Registered: Sep 2001
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1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4X4 -Alpine CDA-9831 -CDT CL-51 two way component's {front} -CDT CL-5X coaxial's {rear} -Cadence A4 -Cadence A7HC -1 DD 9515 in a 5 cub. box tuned to 35 hz with 65.25 sq.inches of vent Posts: 2156 | From: the psychopathic house | Registered: Jan 2002
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quote:Originally posted by 1LoudZ34: Started my 3.25 cu box for my L7 today and decided that I didn't want to risk splitting this wood at all so I am attempting it with just gluing and clamping, this should still make the box structurally sound, correct? Thanks, Josh
Absolute best way is to find the Right angle things that you can clamp on the inside of the box. (Home depot or lowes will know and have them) Pre-Drill holes, Pre drill holes, pre drill holes!!! and, ohh yeah, pre drill holes.
Liquid nails can be a hinder if its layed on too thick. Also, id advise if you are going to just use glue, fiberglass the inside of the box with some resin. At least 1/4 and inch, that way you dont have to worry about sub-sonic wave getting into any weak spot, and breaking appart the glue. Just a thought.
posted
again i've built quite a few enclosures with just clue and 30" clamps and i can(and do) jump on all of my boxes to make sure they are sturdy
Posts: 3421 | From: Owosso MI, USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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so what size drill bit do you guys use to predrill? and i assume you are using #4 drywall screws?
Posts: 75 | From: Dallas,Tx | Registered: Aug 2001
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Hey, if ya decide to screw, try to find some FAST TAP screws. I believe thats what there called, my mom just got me some from where she works (fastner supply store) and they work lovly, only had i board have a minor split in it, and it was really close to the edge of the board. Yery nice screws, probally wont split if u are careful(and i didnt pre drill holes either, no drill bits!)
-------------------- Team Maxxsonics T3 Audio Posts: 6648 | From: Albany | Registered: May 2002
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glue alone is more than sufficient. not a fan of liquid nails though. standard wood glue is much better. I like to use a pneumatic brad nailer just to hold it together and straight though.
-------------------- 2005 Black VW Golf TDI Alpine/DEI/Image Dynamics/CDT Posts: 736 | From: Albertville MN USA | Registered: Mar 2000
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if you have axcess to a brad nailer, it is the quickest and best way to support the box while the glue sets up. make sure to use enough glue. and if you really want to make the enclosure strong glass the inside of the box. i have also built many boxes with the screw and glue method, which also works very well, but you need to take a lot more time and be careful. i like to use a #6 predrill bit, with countersink. and i use 1-1/2" #6 coarse thread drywall screws.
quote:Originally posted by asauer: liquid nails is junk. Use regular wood glue (tight-bond) and my favorite so far is the polyurethane glue- EASY to sand off. IMO neway
Liquid Nails Rules!! especially with the exta large tubes (need the gun to match) brad nails are nice, and easy way to hold it together while waiting for it to set.
TRUE some variations of liquid nails is NOT good for boxes, but i use heavy duty construction grade.
i build boxes IN cars sometimes and have also taken them out.......with sawzalls and sledghammers...the joints were VERY strong.
Titebond II also is GREAT glue, so use what YOU want.
-------------------- Rockford Fosgate FiCarAudio Team XS Power Batteries and Intellichargers!!
1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4X4 -Alpine CDA-9831 -CDT CL-51 two way component's {front} -CDT CL-5X coaxial's {rear} -Cadence A4 -Cadence A7HC -1 DD 9515 in a 5 cub. box tuned to 35 hz with 65.25 sq.inches of vent Posts: 2156 | From: the psychopathic house | Registered: Jan 2002
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