posted
i was reading that you are supposed to add 20% to the box to add for speaker displacement and bracing and such, and pardon me if this is a dumb question... do you add the 20% to the volume, or to the lengths, or what? i really don't want to mess up. hehe. mdf aint cheap.
posted
Well, I don't know what that formula or whatever applies to... just do the math - subtract for the thickness of the wood and read the speaker spec sheets to get its displacement. With sealed boxes, you have a + or - 10% leeway, ported a bit less, and bandpass... well, none.
------------------ On the ground Nissan, walk-thru, 9 12's.... daily driver?!
posted
well i don't see how people come up w/ exactly 2.0cubic foot boxes and stuff. the measurements would have to be like oddball numbers w/ decimals and stuff. and do you just figure out the width and hight you have to have, then punch in #'s for the depth until its right or what? crazy chit i tell ya!! =)
posted
never do the 20% thing, just find the displacement of your sub, and braces then just add that to the total air volume tha box needs to be, then just start punching some numbers
------------------ i would get some expensive subs but my shockers are just too damn loud
posted
Exactly. Basically it is trial-and-error. Figure out what your max measurements are and calculate(length x width x highth for rectangular box, or (lenght1+length/2)x width x highth for wedge style). Divide by 1728 to get ft^3. Hopefully it will be just right or too much then start decreasing numbers until you get to your optimum size.
------------------ On the ground Nissan, walk-thru, 9 12's.... daily driver?!
posted
i found some neato online html gismos that do all that for me. i just have to punch in #'s and it does all the calcualtions. and figures out the length of the ports for me and what kind of wires i need and all kinds of cool stuff =)
------------------ -- I swear!! it was the air pressure that made me wet myself. -- -- Click the picture under my name -- mephistopheles01@excite.com --