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I ran a mustang "03" last year with 2-12" kove t-3's for the first half of the year.....It did well in the local and regional shows but would not do well against the "BIG BOYS" I ran ss 1-2 NW and was making mid to high40's there is an inherent problem with a fiberglass car and that is flex.......dude that car would blow up like a balloon.... I sent the car out to paint and had a single point show scheduled before i could get the car back from paint so.....I put a couple subs in my Exterra just to get some points and did almost 3 Db better.... with no dynomat either so When the mustang came back from paint my old lady inhereted it and i took and used the Exterra. I did a show in Cleveland "Brookpark" and there was a guy there with an mustang with a wall in it and he did a big # like mid 50's if i remember right.So there you go ......good luck and keep us posted how it goes
-------------------- 12 VOLTS BABY!!!!! TEAM STETSOM USA & SALES REP TEAM STINGER BUY OHIO GENERATORS WORLD FINALS COMPETITOR 2005,2006,2008,2009 SUPER STREET 1-2 CERTIFIED 161.0 DB MARYLANDS LOUDEST DAILY DRIVER N.S.P.L. STATE RECORD HOLDER 2005,2006,2007,2008,2009 TEAM USAudio Stetsom Sales and Service stetsomrep1@hotmail.com Posts: 2385 | From: Maryland | Registered: Oct 2005
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A Wall In A Mustang wow thats just nuts, I cant do that yet, maybe in the future, Im planning on hitting all the local shows and anything within a 500 mile radius this yr.
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Ive personally witnessed two SX12's in some funky home made boxes that he could move around and position in the trunk and was doing 151. Of course I dont know to what extent he did or didnt sound deaden it.
-------------------- Posts: 701 | From: Fort Knox, Kentucky | Registered: Feb 2005
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Mine's a bit older, but I have 2 12's in a "Meadstyle box" with 1 bd 1501 and and can not reach more then 139. The box sounds great and hits hard but just seems hard to pull Spl #.
Posts: 22 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2005
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On the dash with one clif cdx 20a and in 4.5 cubs 87sqin of port at 43 hz box is tuned to the subs are memhhis HOP`s and 12`s d2ohm this is on 12volts two batterys and one hi amp alt set at 14.7 volts. good luck tj and people that know me know i do my #`s happy building this is in a 1986 gt 5.0.
-------------------- TEAM XTREME LOUD AUDIO THE LOUD CROWD Posts: 2875 | From: Springfield Ma | Registered: Apr 2004
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I'm doing the same thing as you this year sactown. Right now I'm doing MECA street 3. 300 amp iraggi alt. a pair of phd10000 amps. And a single as yet to be determined 15.
I was going to start with sound deadening next weekend, but I think I'm going start testing different setups and spend my money on good quality 0 gauge (high strand count, at least 4000+) and some clean RCAs. I was going to do welding wire, but apparently the low strand count in it causes it to suck balls. Copper is not copper.
This is my first year running the mustang and my first time building a system out of a trunk. Right now, my current idea is to build bandpass. Bandpass is going to give you the lowest impedance rise possible at your tuning frequency and that will allow you to get the most out of your amps.
I'm still in the testing phase. Right now I've got a single bat, custom 10", and one D10. I'll let you know some numbers when my spl meter gets in next weekend.
The first thing you want to do is find the Resonant Frequency of your particular car. Different cars peak at different frequencies. If you can't do that, start looking for places to seal air leeks. The big one's I'm looking at are where the tail lights seal to the body, the big hole in the floor for my manual transmission, and my heat/ac vents (thinking of making removeable block off plates). You wand to make that sucker as tight as possible.
For the record, I've heard of people pulling a 150 with a pair of 10's in a bandpass box off of about 2000 watts... It is doable, you just have to take time and learn the tricks of the trade.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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quote:Originally posted by Nphocus: The big one's I'm looking at are where the tail lights seal to the body, the big hole in the floor for my manual transmission,
damn man, its gonna be hard to ccover over that pesky shifter, im thinking its important to have that in MECA since you got to be in gear to pull into the lane
-------------------- Posts: 701 | From: Fort Knox, Kentucky | Registered: Feb 2005
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yeah, me and the rest of my team were thinking that too... one guy suggested making the shifter quick release, and then making a plug to go over it... I told him fug that, last thing I need to do is be bangin gears and have the shifter come loose at 90mph...
I'm thinking of making a gasket to fill in the empty area out of a high durometer rubber (same stuff racers/ricers use to make/fill in engine mounts). The stuff comes out the tube like caulk, but after about 24hrs of cure time is pretty damn stiff.
I could probably use the shifter plug for daily use, since it's made from the same stuff as the trans and engine mounts.
That was my great solution, haven't fabbed it yet. I'm trying to find 200 ft of 4000+ strand 0 gauge for a really good price. I'm also waiting to hear from steve stern if my choice of batteries for this year are going to be legal for street.
Last year I ran a crx, and one of the hoser judges had a problem with the group 31 battery I was running in "amatuer" class. Tried to feed me some bull$hit about it being larger than the stock battery tray and made me run modified. Oddly enough it was a double pt event and I set a state record and won my class... too bad there wasn't anyone else competing against me and that was the first event of the season you could set records at
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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well we ran it this weekend at autorama, and I couldnt get it over 135.1 smoked a set of tweeters tryin, but to no avial.
Im building a new box soon next dbdrag event I want to attend is in march in redding Ca.
my current problem is Im not getting enough air into the cabin of the car.
to Solve this Im making custom brakets for the rear seat latches and then Im cramming both 12's into the space allowed by the side trim panels. (same box internal size as now as I love the sound It hits LOW.)
I have matted and foamed some when i make the new seat brackets I will seal off the rest of the trunk from the cabin. and matte the heck out of it.
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Here's an idea, since we're all running stangs and trying to do it loud out of a trunk.
Sealed boxes have a stupid amount of impedance rise. Ported boxes are better about having less impedance rise. Bandpass is going to give you the absolute least amount of impedance rise possible.
I've spent alot of time talking to a guy out of Hendersonville TN that runs Team Twysted Audio. He's pulled over 152db+ on a termlab at the kick in a all trunk 2000ish mustang coupe.
The hardware was a pair of True Bass 10's, don't ask where to get them, there's no website and the owner only delivers them by hand to a small number of dealers within his driving range. The amp was a single Cadance Z1000 - pretty sure that's the model he said.
That's 152db off of a pair of 10s coming out of the trunk of a mustang coupe. The amp pushs an honest 1500wrms, the subs are good for 2kw burps, and those are True Bass' midline 10s.
The enclosure is 100% removeable. The area under the rear decklid is sealed off with removeable panels. The area under that is turned into a large box with a tuning port coming through where the back seats fold down. The subs are enclosed in a tightly sealed box that's just big enough to hold them.
The tiny ass sealed portion greatly increases the power handling (not to be confused with thermal handling, because it doesn't affect that at all) of the woofer and causes it to have a VERY peaked response curve. The tiny ass sealed box with the woofer is attached to the outside of the big ass ported box and voila', you now have a bandpass box. The larger the ported section, the more it will kick ass, IMHO.
Something to be aware of, when I modeled bandpass enclosures in winisd, specifically this ratio type enclosure, the impedance is higher at the frequencies above and below the tuning frequency.
At the tuning frequency, the impedance is minimal, like maybe .8-1 ohm.
Since I'm spilling the beans, there's a device at parts express called a woofer tester. It can test tuning frequency and impedance rise by frequency inside of a box, without an amplifier... I'm getting that and an splmeter so I can tweak my setup. I'm doing an adjustable port for tuning behind the back seats, and an adjustable sealed enclosure. If you make the sealed enclosure larger, it broaden's the bandpass box's response curve and greatly improves the SQ. Turns it from a one note fart box into something you may want to actually listen to every day. JL audio's website also has some good info under their magic box tutorial.
Good luck everyone. Coming out of a trunk and going against a crx isn't going to be easy. But that's why MECA has Boom and Zoom. They just might be able to beat us by a few dbs in spl, but we'll smoke them by quite a few seconds in the quarter...
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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I built a 2001 mustang with 2 digital design 2500 series 10" subs and 1 DD M1 amplifier and its would do mid 144's on the dash and 147's USACI. This is all with a bone stock electrical system and an everyday listening box.
-------------------- Proud member of: Team High Output Audio Team DD Team JBL 2005 street max 3-4 world champion 161.3 (co-captain) imagine what number with all subs working 2004 street max 3-4 world champion 160.6 (co-captain) 2006 street max 3-4 taking over the van
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Just spent the better part of yesterday adapting a large Case GM alternator to a 2000 4.6L SOHC engine. I also wired up the external voltage regulator.
Just for reference, my stock 130 amp alt was set at 14.4 volts. I set the new GM one at 16.6, and the computer and everything else is good with it. So far, I've put 100 miles on this setup, and without issues. I've finished coating the inside and outside of my box in resin. I'm going to run 0 gauge to the back and drop the single 10 and one of the phd10000s in tomorrow. Signal is coming from a 2v Blaupunkt deck. I'll order a new deck once someone actually has the 06 kenwood and pioneer premier line in stock.
The box is 1 cuft sealed made from MDF. The sub is a brahma motor, generic basket, dual custom wound 3" .7 ohm flat copper wire coils, and a nice rubber surround. I'm still trying to find someone in VA with a termlab that I can meter the car on so I can find it's tuning frequency.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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oh, PM if you want specific installation instructions and/or pictures. The alt is the 300 amp model in my sig.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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I'll take some pics tomorrow morning and have them posted.
Bobby
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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I run 2 12 inch SI mags in my mustang. It sounds great. I am hoping if I switch over to ported boxes and tune them pretty high I will be able to get in the 150 range in my mustang. My friend did 153 with 2 12's with 2000 rms going to each. So it is possible to get real loud in a mustang with limited space.
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Large GM Case 300 amp alt with external voltage regulator. 0 gauge run from the alt chassis to ground. 0 gauge run from the alt positive to battery. I'll be doing 0 gauge grounds from the battery to chassis, engine to chassis, and amps in the back to the battery in the front.
I've run the voltage as high as 16.6 volts and the computer/gauges are fine with it. Right now I have it set at 15.5 for daily.
The alt is a very tight fit against the plastic intake manifold. The bracket does require a C-notch to clear the radiator hose.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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