posted
Hey all, Got my new 200 amp mr.alternator today, I had it powder coated Flourescent green to match my stickers. Looks great, great quality and excellent service, Tom and Scott are great. Will let you all know how it works. Later, Rick
Posts: 67 | From: Norfolk, NY | Registered: Oct 2001
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yes please inform us all, on how the alt is. I have heard good and bad from people who use those alt's.
Posts: 782 | From: Rapid City SD | Registered: Feb 2001
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Make sure you let us know how it turns out. Also, how much did you pay for it?
-------------------- Nate Scholten Team Sounds And Motion SS 1-2 3rd place 2004 finals -THE BUILD- ~Our Drinking Team Has A Stereo Problem~ Posts: 4253 | From: Rhinelander,WI | Registered: Dec 1999
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I paid 285$ including shipping and the powder coating, It took 5 days to get here, way upstate NY. The only negative I have heard about there alternators is the idle voltage, this doesn't concern me because I am only burping the system at 2000 rpm, but other than that there product seems great. I did a TON of research on alternators and must say they were pretty much the same as Ohio generator. I talked with Tom from Ohio generator and got specs and all was the same right down to the warranty, but I saved about 350$. will let you all know asap, Later, Rick
Posts: 67 | From: Norfolk, NY | Registered: Oct 2001
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I have been using a MrAlternator 130 amp alternator for several months and have not had any problems with it. This is stock on newer Mustangs but I converted my older 75 amp one over to this new style. I have not heard anything bad about their alternators. I have heard of lots of people using them without problems. They use good quality components unlike some cheap alt's that you can find.
Posts: 327 | From: Pleasanton & Sacramento Ca | Registered: Dec 2001
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mr. alt. alternators, no matter how you look at it, suck at idle. the pulley is really small so it spins faster and in my opinion the design is flawed. for the money i can name a better one... if dominick can build one for you that's what i'd go with... JMHO
Posts: 1467 | From: eureka, ca | Registered: Aug 2001
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Hey all, Installed the alternator last night and it works awesome. I was pulling less than 10 volts at my burp tone now I am at a constant 13.8 to 14. So it was well worth the money. Looks great too. I must say it installed in 20 minutes, bolted right up and played great. I say give them a try, it won't hurt. I did notice that at idle if I burped the system my lights dimmed and voltage dropped, but I don't burp at idle so It doesn't concern me. Later, Rick
Posts: 67 | From: Norfolk, NY | Registered: Oct 2001
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Sweet, I got my Mr. Alternator alt yesterday. Hopefully I'll have good results as well.
Posts: 3961 | From: State College, PA | Registered: Sep 2000
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quote:Originally posted by stabmaster: mr. alt. alternators, no matter how you look at it, suck at idle. the pulley is really small so it spins faster and in my opinion the design is flawed. for the money i can name a better one... if dominick can build one for you that's what i'd go with... JMHO
I have owned 2 different Mr. Alternator alts over the past 2 years, and I tend to agree with stabmaster. At idle, they are horrible! I'm almost embarrased to have my system on when I'm sitting at a stop light because the lights dim so bad it looks like a POS ghetto car. Above 2500rpm, it's fine though. I had the voltage regulator upgraded from 14.4 to 14.8, and that seemed to help it a little bit. I also had Mr. Alt replace the pulley to idle faster, that helped some also, but now the alt sounds very "whiney". All in all, I'm satisfied with it, but there's a reason they are much cheaper than the Ohio Gen alts, Stinger alts, etc.
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I got a 200 amp, powder coated red alt from mr alternator and have been running it for about a year now. It works well at 1000 rpms and up, but is ridiculously bad at idle. My headlights dim at idle when my radio is off and i turn my A/C on high. Just my experience.
Posts: 91 | From: Hayward, CA | Registered: Nov 2001
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Would you suggest this alternator to me? I am running 1100W and my car wines down when it hits burped notes. I am also now adding anouther battery.
-------------------- SS 3-4 dB Drag I am Curently running 3 Memphis HP15" and one ST1000D for SPL. I am also only hitting 149.5. It sucks but I am working on it. My stats page Posts: 61 | From: Palm Bay, FL | Registered: Dec 2001
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ALL the ones complaining about the idle voltage of the high output alts,, should have checked into it the low output at idle is pretty much common in all high output alts Stabmaster , as far as the pulley being small thats common it speeds up the alt when building a higher output alt it usually norrows the "output window" and ususally requires higher rotor speed.
[ 01-04-2002: Message edited by: Auto Audio ]
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Posts: 750 | From: Auto Audio of Tullahoma,TN | Registered: Mar 2000
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Mine has also worked well for about a year now and i drop crazy voltage too ONLY, ONLY with the lights on at idle. I cannt beleive the lights suck so much juice. I have considered a smaller pully but could not get a solid answer from that. I have been told you can burn your alt up from the faster spin. What i don't get is why only the voltage drop with the lights on??
MIX^^^
-------------------- Saturn SL-1
Excelon Stealth HU/Removable Faceplate, Excelon 10 disc changer, Kenwood 13 band parametric, XM5-e 4 way active xover, ID Chameleons 3 way front stage, Gen X Hifonics Goliath, MTX 81000d, Kicker L-7 15's, Monster, Streetwires acc, Optima, Lightning Audio, H/O alt, Viper Security, RaMMatt/Dynamat
Your ears are your furtune!!DON'T shortcut car audio!!
If an alternator has poor output at idle, it has parts that are not a good combination for the application. I have found various parts that work MUCH better than the norm for high output alternators.
True, high output alternators do a higher percentage less than what the max output is.
(IE: 200 amp alternator does approx 125 at idle where a stock 105 amp does approx 90 at idle.)
Auto Audio, have you ever used one of my alternators? or even seen one?........I didnt think so.........so how do you know how much output they have at idle? Not trying to be rude or anything, but do some testing for yourself before you make any statements about them. How much current at idle do your 300 amp alternators do on your truck?... None, I have seen the charts on them and they dont even turn on until almost 3000 rotor rpm. (1800 rpm is considered idle) I have a 300 amp alternator that does well over 100 amps at idle hot and 210 amps at idle cold.
(The "Hot" test is when the alternator is approx. 300+ degrees. Which RARELY happens.)
Again, not trying to get on anyones nerves but, Get the facts first.
-------------------- LOUDEST CERTIFIED SCORE ON LINEAR X 172.0
2002 UsaCi Super Modified 0-1000 World Champion 173.6 2002 UsaCi Legal World Record Holder Expert 0-600 (B&K) 171.0 (171.4) 2003 Meca XX-Class Record Holder 172.0 (backed up with a 171.9)
Idle current = 206 amps @14.5 volts Max. current = 291 amps @14.5 volts
My 250 amp alternator specs:
Idle current = 166 amps @14.5 volts Max. current = 265 amps @14.5 volts
My 200 amp alternator specs:
Idle current = 141 amps @14.5 volts Max. current = 227 amps @14.5 volts
I was curious about the exact numbers so I pulled up the charts.
-------------------- LOUDEST CERTIFIED SCORE ON LINEAR X 172.0
2002 UsaCi Super Modified 0-1000 World Champion 173.6 2002 UsaCi Legal World Record Holder Expert 0-600 (B&K) 171.0 (171.4) 2003 Meca XX-Class Record Holder 172.0 (backed up with a 171.9)
posted
Sorry Dufrain, no website. I own a shop in TN.
Let me know what your interested in and I will see what we have.
E-Mail me though.
Dominick@tds.net
-------------------- LOUDEST CERTIFIED SCORE ON LINEAR X 172.0
2002 UsaCi Super Modified 0-1000 World Champion 173.6 2002 UsaCi Legal World Record Holder Expert 0-600 (B&K) 171.0 (171.4) 2003 Meca XX-Class Record Holder 172.0 (backed up with a 171.9)
posted
Dominick , re reading my post I see how it upset you, I meant NOTHING bad about your alts I know they are a great value, I have used a couple differnet High output alts and everyone has suffered at idle speed , I was just making the point that all usually suffer at low idle. We have been friends for a few years and i would not put your product down especially on a pubic forum. I edited my post, my point was maybe i should have stated from my experiance and not used you for example as you stated my alts put out little to nothing at Idle, i have used another brand (than what i am using now) and it was the same.
[ 01-04-2002: Message edited by: Auto Audio ]
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Posts: 750 | From: Auto Audio of Tullahoma,TN | Registered: Mar 2000
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i installed my mr. alt in my mustang and what a b*tch it was to get it in there because i had to grind bracket down with a dremel tool, talk about taking for ever.
i, to have the same experince of haveing dropped voltage at idle, but i did get it checked and im doing 12-12.5 volts at idle and over 14 volts when driving or reving the engine.
I have noticed a dramatic differnce in sound quality with the alt upgrade because everything sounds a lot cleaner and louder at lower volumes but when i turn it up to really high volumes i still get lights dimming on deep bass.
I am extremely happy with the alt, just wished it didnt make the lights dim at idle, but you cant have everything you want.
-------------------- 91 Mustang GT Hatchback Pioneer Premier 920r 2 Concept 5.25 comp sets 3 Concept EX 12's 1 Concept 1004 1 Concept 2400 1 Yellow top Mr. Alternator 200 amp alt Stinger Power and Interconnects(some monster cable in there) All Installed by me with the my dad helping me build my box.
posted
If your voltage drops to 12.5 at idle. you definitely have a problem. You may have a bad rectifier or something.
What I said to Auto Audio is not all alternatirs have problems at idle.
-------------------- LOUDEST CERTIFIED SCORE ON LINEAR X 172.0
2002 UsaCi Super Modified 0-1000 World Champion 173.6 2002 UsaCi Legal World Record Holder Expert 0-600 (B&K) 171.0 (171.4) 2003 Meca XX-Class Record Holder 172.0 (backed up with a 171.9)
posted
well my mechanic didnt say there was anything wrong it dropping like that, but ill ask him again about it.
-------------------- 91 Mustang GT Hatchback Pioneer Premier 920r 2 Concept 5.25 comp sets 3 Concept EX 12's 1 Concept 1004 1 Concept 2400 1 Yellow top Mr. Alternator 200 amp alt Stinger Power and Interconnects(some monster cable in there) All Installed by me with the my dad helping me build my box.
posted
There is nothing "wrong" with your mr. alternator alt, meaning that nothing is physically or functionally damaged. The problem is with the alternator. Ive had a 200 amp alt from mr alt in my 98 mustang for about a year, and to put it simply, it just sucks at idle. For me, anything over 1000 rpms and i will have no voltage drops, but under 1000 rpms there is a lot of dimming. One piece of advice to you is to upgrade your wires. Change the wire from the alt to the fuse box, and run an extra wire from the alt to the battery positive. I had an unfortunate incident where the ring connector melted off where it connected to the alt (without me knowing) so my battery was the only thing powering my car...until my car died. Just telling you so you dont get stranded somewhere like i did.
Posts: 91 | From: Hayward, CA | Registered: Nov 2001
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your right it does suck with the volt drop, but for the price and considering how big the stock alt was, im not really gonna complain.
-------------------- 91 Mustang GT Hatchback Pioneer Premier 920r 2 Concept 5.25 comp sets 3 Concept EX 12's 1 Concept 1004 1 Concept 2400 1 Yellow top Mr. Alternator 200 amp alt Stinger Power and Interconnects(some monster cable in there) All Installed by me with the my dad helping me build my box.
I just bought a 275 amp alternator from Dom, and even though i dont have it yet, I can vouch for his customer service. Its rare to talk to salesmen who aren't tryin to rip ya off
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