posted
Ok well here’s the deal. Last week installed my MTX 81000d and 12” l7s and 1/0 gauge wire I got from meci.com ( I think the wire is aluminum not copper?) Well in the process my battery died from having my doors/trunk, and hood open. This is about the 10th time my battery has died on me. Well, anyways I eventually got my battery jumped and charged and went for a spin to hear the beat knock ( I know it wasn’t the smartest idea but sometimes I’m just so damn impatient) All I can say is thing were slamming, for about a ten second burp then it I would get mad clipping through my highs and subs (my highs at the moment are powered off a little 40x2 alpine) So I go home and measure my battery voltage, which was 11.5 volts a with the car off and the alt was reading 14.4 at idle. Unfortunately I dropped my meter and broke it before I could get a reading while the beat was knocking. Since my alternator seemed as if it was strong I assumed my battery was causing my problems, since I’ve killed the thing Oh so many times. So I go out and I buy a new battery from sears. I got the biggest and best they had for my car which was a diehard which threw out 900 CCA and 1000CA. To my disappointment I’m still having electrical problems. With the beat on you barley see my headlights, I’ mean they don’t’ even dim there just very low all the time. I am able to let it rip for a little longer but not long enough for me. If I really want to crank it I have to sit in neutral and rev my **** while I’m knocking. I only have an 80 amp fuse inline and I can’t blow it for life of me, not that I’m trying but you would think that amp would kill it at full volume. Here is a breakdown of my wiring scheme: -0\1 gauge from batt. to 2 ga fuse holder with wire trim downed to fit -80 amp inline wafer fuse. -0/1 ga. out to trunk (15ft) in to 2 gauge distribution block. -4 ga to mtx amp. (2ft max) -4 gauge to fuse block with 8ga to alpine amp and 12 ga to crossovers and eq’s -4 gauge ground to chassis from mtx -8 gauge ground from alpine to chassis -12 ga grounds from crossover and eq’s to chassis -remote wire to all (pretty cheap small cheap wire but it isn’t really current dependent right)
Here are my questions 1) Do I need a new alternator or what. 2) Would a cap or a deep cycle battery help in this situation. 3) Would a smaller fuse such as an 80 where a 150 is required cause current to be restricted from flowing. 4) Would aluminum wire cause this drastic of a current loss. 5) Would up grading wires from alt to batt. and batt. to chassis realistically help. 6) Any other potential problems you can think of.
I really need help here guys. I apologize for the long post and all. If I left any needed info out please let me know
Posts: 28 | From: pacifica, ca. (S.F.) | Registered: Aug 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
1) wouldnt hurt. Do you have the money for a new one? If so... get one.
2)Capacitors will help with your lights dimming a little, but capacitors discharge even faster than a battery, thus, you wont be able to "sit there and knock" for any longer with a capacitor.
3)No, a single fuse would not be the problem.
4)Never. A conductor is a conductor as far as wire is concerned. There are differences, but they are on the scale of 10^-5
5) YES. This is probably your problem. Find the wire going from your battery to the chassis. Its probably 10 or maybe 8 gauge. Upgrade it to 1/0.
6)Upgrade that wire i just mentioned and report back to us.
-------------------- Nate Scholten Team Sounds And Motion SS 1-2 3rd place 2004 finals -THE BUILD- ~Our Drinking Team Has A Stereo Problem~
Printer-friendly view of this topic