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What's the best way of all to run the spkr wire through the box wall? I have the terminal cup with the threaded + and - terminals(not the spring loaded type) Seems like the cup might be prone to leakage. Maybe it's easier to just drill a hole and thread it through. But then what if it gets yanked? Any and all suggestions gratefully accepted. Final phase of install...tomorrow A.M.... Cannot wait. An 8inch Polk db getting fed 280 watts sitting against the firewall on the passenger side in a .3cu ft sealed box. ROCK N ROLLLLL!!!!
posted
In something like that where it won't need to be moved often, forget the cup. You can protect the wire from getting pulled out by either snugging a tie strap around it or tying a know in it inside the enclosure. Don't forget to silicone the hole.
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Lord Dukk The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
posted
What dukk said, I prefer the knot on the inside so the wire doesn't pull through. On speaker wire of decent size (I use 12 guage throughout) I like finding a small drill bit (one the size of one of the two conductors) and drill two holes side by side. (touching) You will get a figure 8 opening with a small breakthrough in the center. Your wire can go through this with very little leakage before the silicone.
posted
Use the terminal cup. There is something wrong with the "Knot" method, besides looking amateurish, magnetic fields of the wire are changed at the knot.(may be indecirnible) Use rubber strips, or foam strips as gasket material, cut away any carpet. Use Banana plugs,(sounds like the type you described)and/or spades(shows attention to detail), or bare wire to the terminal cup. You can increase the wire guage inside the cabinet and be able to remove it, without dragging a wire from it. when properly fastened it will not leak, keep in mind, what do ALL loudspeaker manufacturers use?
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Posts: 1057 | From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada 'eh | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Most manufacturers use the terminal cups because of many factors. The speakers they build have to be easily serviced, have to be of consistent build, and must be easy for them to make. I agree with Tman and Dukk on this, unless you plan on taking the sub out for extra trunk space, a Terminal cup isn't necessary, unless your going for that .10 point for attention to detail. Some may even make the argument that you could lose signal through the extra connectors associated with using a terminal cup. Just my 2 cents...
------------------ members.tripod.com/Audiophyle Ba Chomp, Ba Chewy Chomp, Ba Chewy Chewy CHOMP!! Someday, we'll all look back on this, laugh nervously, and change the subject!!
Posts: 3120 | From: nowhere | Registered: May 1999
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I am going to have to go with Dukk and tech on this one also. Mostly because why use 3/4 Mdf or suitable style material then put a terminal cup that is ultra thin I have yet to see a terminal cup that would be think enough to equal the building material of the box. I realize we are talking a very tiny space but I say if your not going to remove the subs over and over why take the chance. Besides even if you use gasket and cut away the carpet the terminals are not perfectly sealed they usually ahve some amount of play in them. No offence Eli47 I know you have got way more knowledge then me but I think you are inncorrect on this one. Also I use silicone then I put liquid Nails over it then pack it in with a nail I could just about pick up my box with my speaker cable and there is no knot on the inside.
------------------ BIGMAN Coming in 2000 "THUNDERDOME"
Posts: 64 | From: Grand Rapids, Michigan USA | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Although innapropriate for this particular box, I like to get raw banana posts long enough to pass through the wall of the box. Then all one has to do is drill a small (1/8") hole for each post to pass through. The nut on the back seals up the hole and it looks very custom.....
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Lord Dukk The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
posted
If you don't like a knot, try using staples to hole the wire close to the hole in the box, this will work if you use big staples... Or two small screws and a metal strap... Another easy fix for about $0.25...
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Posts: 186 | From: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
All are great ideas, being budget minded, I have always preferred the knot/staple method. However, the banana plug and/or cup method will work just as well.
I would say, knot/staple the wire and silicone/liquid nail the whole(s) and rock on!!!!
my 1/2 cent worth.
ub
------------------ Never tick off a klingon!
Posts: 7272 | From: No. VA | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Thanks for all the ideas. Here's what I ended up doing. I cut the hole for the terminal cup and screwed it in place after pilot holes. Then installed the wire from the inside and then stuffed the whole area with fiberglass insulation( the pink stuff). Packed it in with a screwdriver. Then painted fiberglass resin over that and put a layer of fiberglass mat over that. It definitely ain't leaking and plus I see the cup as opposed to a knot in the wire. Overkill perhaps but now I don't have to wonder. By the way... having this Polk db8 sub up front is awesome! It's pure "tone" as opposed to the thump that was coming from the trunk , which is exactly what I was looking for - strong deep bass in my face.Now I have my trunk 10 set at 50 hz. A nice install if I do say so myself. Again thanks for the ideas.
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