posted
To my knowledge, the larger the port, the longer the port... Therefore, the theoretical limit comes at a point when the remainder of your port is sticking through the back of the box and out the back of your car
or perhaps, :Þ
The larger the port, the less port noise you are going to get as a rule of thumb, as well as the port air velocity goes down.
Also.. PR Ports makes an AeroPort flange style that is 6" in diameter... Try that?
ShadowStar
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Posts: 2579 | From: Somewhere In the Northeast | Registered: May 1999
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posted
He wanted the slot port so it looks better or something. I told him it would be a lot harder to build cuz you have to actually make the port from wood. I said he should just get some pvc and run a 4 or 5" port...but he wants the slot port.
he's pretty aggravating...
I don't think I'm gonna help him...
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Posts: 213 | From: Carriere, MS, US | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
Check out the JL Audio sites tutorials, it covers port basics including round, slot, and multi port designs. It also has the appropriate formuli to make it all work.
------------------ inno73@hotmail.com
Posts: 490 | From: Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
As a rule I try to use 3" for 8s, 3s or 4s for 10s (depending on how beefy a 10), 4" for 12s, and one or 2 4" for 15s. Actually, TermPro suggests this for me, but this is what I use when I have to shoot from the hip. For slots, I just use the same rule but convert to areas...
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Lord Dukk The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
posted
I like slots cuz they are easy to get really lrge port areas, and are easier to 'bend' than pipe. I've been experimenting a bit with abnormally large port areas to see if there is any advantage. I'll let you all know......
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Lord Dukk The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
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