posted
Okay, I wrecked my car, and still want to utilize some of my setup. Soooo, I've decided that I'm gonna give using some of the things i got (sub/amp) an audition in a home audio environment. Now, I know how to give the amp a +12v signal for the remote turn on, I know how I am going to hook it up, and I know how I am going to play with crossover points to match it with the speakers I have. What I don't know is where to find a transformer that will be able to take 120VAC(std. elec. outlet) and convert it into 12VDC AND be able to handle all the current the thing will be drawing. I have a PPI PC2150 and an SS Exact that I am wanting to do this with. The PPI takes a 50/60 amp fuse, which is wayyyy beyond what most of the transformers I see can handle. Anyone know where I can find some equipment that will do the trick?
Jeff
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Posts: 49 | From: Columbia, MO | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
You need to use a pair of 12-13.8 volt 50 amp power supplies, balance the outputs so they don't fight each other, then you can run your stuff. They're not cheap, but it's pretty much the only way to do it, unless you buy a battery and use it till it's drained, then charge it again, and keep repeating that.
posted
Sam is right. I run my ham radio off a smaller 20 amp peak power supply.
Other then that you could do the battery thing. Just be carefull for the fumes that can be given off...
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posted
I just looked up a 22a power supply in my Jameco cataloge and it was 89.00.
------------------ "The Phil"
Kove audio, the difinitive response to the age old question of SQ vs. SPL ..... why not have both?
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Posts: 2679 | From: unknown bowels of the underworld | Registered: Aug 2000
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Building your own DC rectifier is moderately inexpensive UNTIL it comes time to add the transformer (which is really the first step but hey.... ) The transformer will probably be about 80-90% of the total cost of a decent DC power supply.
ShadowStar
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If the sub moves, use it. If the tweet's metal, lose it. If you car doesn't have Oz, I just can't excuse it.
Posts: 2579 | From: Somewhere In the Northeast | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Get an Optima and run the amp off of that. I think it would be safer to have a yellow top then a regular automotive battery. And if you're going to be running it and then charging it, a deep cycle would be the best choice for that. And for the remote turn on you could wire a switch between the battery and the remote terminal on the amp
------------------ If sparks don't fly, your rides too high!
=151.1
Posts: 354 | From: Qualicum Beach, BC Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
I race radio control cars and we use DC peak chargers for the batterys. I've got a 12VDC - 60 amp power supply to run them. I know they make up to at least 75 amp units. The name of the company is Rivergate.
posted
check out my stuff and theres an idea, but if you're gonna do what i did just make sure to fuse everything 800 billion times. heres the address: http://www.sounddomain.com/18797
Premier DEH-P720 HU Pioneer Premier 6x9's Kenwood 428S Sub Amplifier 15" Memphis PowerBass 1/2 farad LA Audio capacitator ported 3.0 cubic ft. box 1 10" Streetglow green neon tube 1 Streeglow green neon strobe 1 20" Streetglow sound activated green neon tube and tons of wire and fuses.
Posts: 338 | From: Stanwood, WA. | Registered: May 2000
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