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I have a 1981 Volvo 244, and am planning an install for this summer. I plan on putting either one 15", one 12", or two 10" firing forward behind the rear seat. Right now there is quite alot of metal behind the seat. Would cutting all that metal, as well as the rear deck, jeopardize the structural integrity of the car? I was thinking of bolting the box right to areas where that metal would attach, so in effect, the box would act as support. Would this work? Thanks Chris
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Posts: 19 | From: Ann Arbor, MI USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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as far as structural integrity, i think you would be fine. There are a few other issues to think about though. Your springs for your trunk are probably in your rear deck. If you cut it out, your trunk will not stay open by itself. Also, if your going to be cutting that much out of the car, your back seats wont be usable anyways. Why not just make a wall?
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Extreme 1985 Ford Thunderbird 2 DD 9515b's 2 USAmps VLX 400s But soon to change.....
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The springs for the trunk are not a problem, they are out of the way. The sheet metal is only behind the rear seats, so the seats will still be usable. Any other input? Thanks Chris
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Posts: 19 | From: Ann Arbor, MI USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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make a rear sturt bar....it'll be original(I've yet to see one on a volvo) and it'll provide you w/all the structural integrity you need. if not, just bolt the box to everything you can. you can never make it too solid
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It shouldn't be a problem... My car has two subs on a baffle mounted to the rear deck, two on a baffle behind the rear seat (if your upholstery is cloth, you may want to remove cylinders of the seats' foam cushioning to allow air to pass through into the cabin... BE CAREFUL, though). THe baffle behind the back seat acts as a brace, and I was able to attach it to some cross braces to further add to it. As far as true integrity, the only time you may notice a "difference" is if you get in a bad accident, and you're screwed with or without some thin sheet metal, anyway...
------------------ Nakamichi CD-700 a/d/s 325is, vertically biamped a/d/s 640ix 2 Soundstream Reference 300 (for fronts) 2 Soundstream Reference 500 (for subs) 4 Soundstream SS10R Limited Editions (500w each @ 2ohms) MOnster/Audio Quest CompZ wire A sh*tload of Accumat Spray foam to deaden cavities/trunk Sonic Bliss
Posts: 79 | From: New Rochelle, NY | Registered: Dec 2000
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Basically, sheet metal is very strong when it is curved, not very strong when its flat (which is why you see that much of the sheetmetal on your floorpan and other parts of the car have curves in it).
So, what does that mean to your volvo? If its curved, it is curved for a reason. So I would suggest instead of cutting out one big hole to fire your subs, you cut a bunch on 3"-4" holes in the car around where the subs are going to be. Try to make the holes in the flat part, and then try to prime and paint the holes once your done to prevent rust (and clean up the filings as well, since they will rust too)
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