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k, i need to know the best method of affixing my subs tomy box. this is a temp box (by temp i mean, big ugly, and to be used till i get another car, so it could be a while, but being pretty ain't no concern)
k, i've heard of using t-bolts, but i can't put this name to any of the images of fasteners i have in my head. if this is the best method, could someone please describe them to me in detail. and if theres a better way, describe that one real well.
on other this. i'm mounting the sub magnet in, now it's a CMP and theres a foam gasket on the cone end of the outer ring. now should i be mounting the sub from the inside of the box, or from the outside. the box is finished, so i guess i'm screwed if i need to mount it from the inside. unless i go and mount it magnet out. what do you guys think is best.
Well, using coarse drywall screws usually works for me, quick, efficient, good hold.. Never had a problem.
Hex screws are usually better buy you have to affix a receptor to the inside, so hey...
Ace used something interesting at SBN, some clamp downs which had three screws each and then clamped onto the sub.. I'm sure six, seven or nine of those would look very badass (although ugly ) indeed.
Yeah.. But whats wrong with normal coarse drywal?
ShadowStar
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Posts: 2579 | From: Somewhere In the Northeast | Registered: May 1999
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posted
At my shop we just have coarse drywall screws, which as mentioned, I don't trust completely for losing grip over time. When doing a personal job, I use T nuts and Machine screws for a secure hold..
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exactly. i'm not saying that the t-nuts and screws can't lose there grip either, cause they probably will. but it's just a matter of tightening them up every now and then. and there not gonna pull through, or out, like the drywall screws can.
k that settled, does anyone know what the hell this gasket on the outside of the mounting ring is for on my CMP. i can't figure it out.
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If i am doing a box with big time wattage. i wil add locktite to the threads of the T-nut bolts..They aren't coming loose anymore! use red locktite..if it works on connecting rod boltss, it will work on a sub bolt. good luck! steve Ps: this wont work with drywall screw and wood.
[This message has been edited by Wreckmster (edited 04-21-2000).]
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Why not just mount a steel ring that has nuts welded to it onto the interior of the enclosure. Then use hex screws to fasten it. This method has been successful every time for me. The one draw back is you need welding equipment, and a steady hand. Otherwise, use the t-bolts.
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Posts: 83 | From: Woodburn, IN, USA | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
Wrech beat me to it.. another thing.. you could also lay a strip of fiberglass and resin over one edge of the t-but (bolt).. this will prevent it slipping out, or if you put the bolt in at an angle, it won't knock it off..( happened to me before.. was in a rush to hook up the subs... we've all been anxious before.
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okay guys, thanks for all your help. however i finished the box 2 weeks ago. 2 days after i first posted. i got my answer on the T-nut thing less than an hour after i posted on the three sites. it's big, ulgy and i believe it's resonating pretty bad. when i slap the side of it, it kinda rings. that's bad right.
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