also was thinking maybe a single 2 way or 3 way set up front, if i go 3 way am i better putting midrange in doors and midbass in the kicks? or all in the doors?
wheres the best position for tweeters in a big suv?
My substange is gonna be a "little" large, probobly 8 or 12 12s with around 10kw...That is going to be off during sq, will the mids in the kicks be enough for that or should I put a 10 or something in the console?
how much bass is necessary when doing sq?
thats just a few questions for now...more to come
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Posts: 8176 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
hey lord thorton! i have kicks for a 03 suburb.!
-------------------- Loudest Street van in the world! 1st and only!to do over a 170db!World rec. in MECA 167 at Head rest!World rec.in IDBL 173.Db +16 Dbdrag World Records!Best of Show Winner! 1st in USA to do over a 175 db !And Extreme Cup Winner.===simi-RETIRED lol ===!!!!!!!!!
quote:Originally posted by TeamSubGoPoof: Question...
I'm looking at buying an 03 suburban
I am thinking about starting to do sound quality
a few questions for you guys....
is active always a better way to go?
also was thinking maybe a single 2 way or 3 way set up front, if i go 3 way am i better putting midrange in doors and midbass in the kicks? or all in the doors?
wheres the best position for tweeters in a big suv?
My substange is gonna be a "little" large, probobly 8 or 12 12s with around 10kw...That is going to be off during sq, will the mids in the kicks be enough for that or should I put a 10 or something in the console?
how much bass is necessary when doing sq?
thats just a few questions for now...more to come
IMO, good sq doesn't require much spl or "bass". You'll want something that will play lower than the midbass upfront. Something tuned to 25-45hz range. Midbass should play to about 50hz or so. Make sure their in their own enclosure.
I would forget about the sub in the console being as your adding all that to the back.
-------------------- See you in the lanes,
dBSteve Get Loud Productions LLC Posts: 8598 | From: Midwest | Registered: Aug 2000
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posted
The key to SQ (other than install) is flexibility in tuning. You want to be able to control every aspect of every speaker. That means the crossover point, the phase, the time alignment, and be able to eq it completely.
I personally prefer a 3 way set. It allows you to have more control. I want a big midbass driver--something in the 7-8" range---and generally you don't find to many 7-8's that are good in the midrange area.
Tweeters--totally depends on what tweeter you are using, the frequency range, etc. You will likely end up in the kickpanel, apillar or sail panel--but you have to test.
Placement of midbass/midrange---pathlengths. Perfect world--midbass in the kickpanel vented to the outside of the vehicle. Most midbass drivers are not meant for sealed enclosures. Just like with a subwoofer--you can't get a good response if you have the speaker in the wrong enclosure size. Putting a midbass in a tiny sealed enclosure will give you a very peaky response and it will roll off way to fast to be useful. You won't be able to EQ that out either. Midrange would also go in the kick. This will take some work to get it done so it isn't some huge glob down in your kick. It will also likely involve some metal cutting. The tradeoff generally ends up being midbass in door (to get the free air environment) and midrange in kick. Though some people have done midbass in kick and midrange in the dash/apillar area. This can work--but it has to be done right.
Subwise---if you can get a 12" up front, in the proper airspace (or vented to the outside of the vehicle), and it isn't off to the left/right--, it doesn't come in a center console that blocks the other side's kickpanel/speaker locations, and you can get rid of all rattles and floor resonance---that is always sweet. Otherwise--I wouldn't try to cram it somewhere. Cone area is always better.
I would also suggest a sealed enclosure over something ported. For SQ judging/listening, you will have your midbass playing down to the 40-50hz range. So your sub needs to play from 20hz-40hz. Harder to get that accurate in a ported enclosure.
posted
I would definitely keep the 6 1/2" bose speaker in the center console. I bridged a 150 watt amp to that sub in mine, and it definitely brings something extra to the front.
Kill the tweeters in the pillars as well, and stick them in the doors with the mids, imo
-------------------- Mike Extreme Audio www.ExtremeAudio.org Extreme Van for Sale! Team JBL Team Fi Certified 179.3 dB 2005/06/07 dB Drag Extreme 3-4 World Champion 3 Time Deathmatch Participant 2004/05/06/07 IDBL World Record Holder 2004/2005 MECA World Record Holder 2006 USACi B&K WR SuperMod Ext.
Posts: 1412 | From: Mechanicsville, Va USA | Registered: Nov 1999
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If you want TRUE realism... to be perfectly honest you should look into the largest midbass you can possibly fit. A 10" or 12" would be excellent. I wish I could fit a 10" in the doors of my Civic... that would make my day.
If you can't pull that off, at least look into a really mean smaller midbass driver so, as Andy correctly stated, you can run them down low without running out of steam. I used the 6.5" Tang-Band subwoofers for midbass before... they go to crap over 200 Hz so you need to do at least a 3-way to use them.
They perform exceptionally well, even IB, despite what their parameters might indicate. I could turn my sub OFF and get response into the 40s pretty strong with those things. I would suggest crossing them around 50 Hz with 200 watts per side on tap. They have a monster coil, with a steep 50 Hz slope they will handle some serious juice.
Andy has alot of other good tips as well.
Hit me up on IM if you want some more ideas... I'm mainly an SQ guy
-------------------- - Jacob Fuller Posts: 993 | From: Mooresville, NC | Registered: Oct 2001
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posted
You don't need a sub up front with all you are going to have. Put the time and effort into squeezing 8's or 10's up front. Kicks would be ideal for them, doors will work but aren't as ideal. Prep whereever they are so that you can run them down to the 30's (40's minimum)and you will just the subs in the back for less than an octave.
You biggest priority will be having the tuning flexibility as Andy said. It takes a long time to get to know a vehicle, you need no limitations when it comes to experimentation.
Posts: 2276 | From: East | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
I'll be there. Might be one of the late comers--I'm going to Lebanon, MO on Saturday for that show first and then on to Goodlettsville, TN. We can play with it there.
quote:Originally posted by Andy Jones: I'll be there. Might be one of the late comers--I'm going to Lebanon, MO on Saturday for that show first and then on to Goodlettsville, TN. We can play with it there.
Pics of molded apillars?
and they are in this
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Posts: 8176 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
I pieced together my own 3way system, but i'm just using some cheap Audiopipe 3way crossovers for now. One day I'll actually build a round crossover with two-tiered circuitboards and do a fully adjusted crossover with phasing, Lpads, and Zobels
Posts: 5535 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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posted
part of it is the practice and getting better at making boards and crossover design. get rid of the impedance rise and phasing issues created by crossovers, and start with a balanced output independent of excursion, driver, and enclosure...then be able to adjust it based off Fletcher-Munson.
Posts: 5535 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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posted
cuz having a flat response on an RTA always sounds like total ASS to the human ear
Posts: 5535 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7993 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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